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From the
RUSSELL E. TRAIN AFRICANA COLLECTION
■ • " ' • • • : ■ . . A
\
HENEY M. STANLEY
HIS LIFE, TEAVELS
AND
EXPLOEATIONS
AUTHOU OE
BY THE
Rev. henry W. LITTLE
“MADAGASCAR: ITS HISTORY AND PEOPLE,” “A HISTORY OF RUSSIA,” ETC., ETC.
LONDON— CHAPMAN and HALL, Limited PHILADELPHIA— J. B. LIPPINCOTT, Company 1890
\ All rights reserved^
• LONDON:
PRINTED BY GILBERT AND RIVINGTON, LD., ST. JOHN’S HOUSE, CLERKENWELL ROAD, E.C,
OT¬ IS '
--s_A ii
5eJ)uatioit.
TO THE “SONS AND DAUGHTEKS OF THE EMPIEE,”
AND
TO THE YOUTH OF THE GREAT AMERICAN REPUBLIC,
THIS SIMPLE STORY OF A BRAVE LIFE
IS AFFECTIONATELY DEDICATED, BY THE AUTHOR.
London, 1890.
PEEFACE.
The great Anglo-Saxon and English-speaking nations of the old and new worlds have no continuous and convenient record of the travels and explorations of Mr. Henry Morton Stanley. This hook it is hoped will supply the need.
The narrative is mainly based upon the graphic ac¬ counts, from the pen of the famous traveller himself, of his journeys and explorations, and upon copies of official despatches, reports, and original papers which have been placed at my disposal.
The helpful lessons of a career so strong in purpose, so direct in aim, and so prolific of results, are too valuable to be overlooked or lost.
The intrepid man who found Livingstone ’’ and discovered the Congo, has ceased to be regarded any longer as a smart newspaper writer ” or an un¬ reliable adventurer.”
He has helped to make the history of the century, created a New State, and secured for himself a front place amongst the noblest pioneers of civilization and the truest friends of humanity of our time.
VI
Preface.
His life is therefore worthy of careful and attentive study. It conveys a message of encouragement to the man who governs, to the man who thinks, and to the man who acts. It also reveals to us an unique example of one man ” power — of the strength of an Indivi¬ duality directed by lofty intention, and sustained by an abiding sense of duty.
With the pages of this Memoir open before us, we are constrained to acknowledge that the days of chivalry and heroic enterprise are not altogether past —that, now as ever, there are strenuous spirits, giants in the land, who are ready to Do and Dare.” There is a quaint fable which hints at the possibility of pig¬ mies increasing in stature by habitual intercourse with giants. Carlyle teaches ns that if we would be full of courage we must surround ourselves, by daily perusal of their doings, with the atmosphere which nourishes heroes.
The achievements of the brave explorer of the ^‘Dark Continent ” are incentives to all men, in an age of spe¬ culation and over-much theorizing, to have the Cou¬ rage of Doing.” His African followers, the constant witnesses of his prowess, his conflicts, and his triumphs over every obstacle which faced him in his efforts to unravel the enigma of the ages, and to open up the great heart of Africa, proclaimed him The Stone Breaker.” In this cognomen his history and character are eloquently and tersely expressed.
Leon Gambetta, on a celebrated occasion, said of him, Stanley has given an impulse to scientiflc and philanthropic enterprise. He has influenced Govern-
Preface.
vii
ments/’ Plutarcli records an incident in the life of a kin^ of Macedon, who, when severely pressed on one occasion by his enemy, retired from the scene of con¬ flict for the pious purpose, as he gave out, of sacrificing to Hercules. Bmilius, his opponent, at once rushed into the fight, with his naked weapon in his hand, and, calling upon the gods, won a brilliant victory. The exploits of Stanley remind us of the method of Bmilius, for with him Doing is Thinking and Working is Praying.
Mr. Stanley has never been envious of the Missionary or the Trader. He has opened the way frankly and generously for both, along the tawny waters of his beloved river and its thousand affluents. He has disclosed to us, in most convincing words, the only solution of what is pre-eminently the African question— the Slave Trade. Free and unrestricted commerce he declares and proves to be the fatal enemy of the Arab man- stealer, the only cure (to use Dr. Livingstone’s pathetic expression) for the running sore of Africa.” In revealing to ns the true condition of Central Bquatorial Africa, with its vast areas of prolific soil, peopled by myriads of dusky nations,” its magnificent water-ways for the transit of its produce, its busy markets, its rich stores of native wealth, and its superior capacity for civilization and legitimate trade, he has conferred a lasting benefaction upon the important artisan populations of Bngland and America.
But a galaxy of illustrious names surround the origin and rise of tbe Congo Free State, with which
viii Preface.
region tbe fame of Henry M. Stanley will be for ever identified.
To bis Majesty Leopold II., King of tbe Belgians, belongs tbe proud title of “ Tbe Generous Monarch,^ ^ wbo so nobly conceived, ably conducted, and magnificently sustained tbe enterprise wbicb bas secured tbe recognition of tbe Great Powers of tbe World, and bas ended in tbe establishment of tbe
Free State (Stanley’s Congo). To tbe marvellous perspicuity, tbe ceaseless ardour, and quenchless courage of Livingstone, wbo first directed tbe eye and mind of Stanley to tbe mysterious Luapula audits far- reaching tributaries, and wbo bimself traced its north¬ ward course to tbe fork of Nyamge, we owe the earliest knowledge we possess of the mighty Congo
at tbe very source and fountain of its being.” To the astute Chancellor of the German Empire, Prince Bismarck, tbe author of tbe political constitution of tbe infant State, must be awarded tbe credit of obtaining for the newly created Province perfect commercial freedom, and liberty to develop its marvellous resources without fear of being ^^let or hindered ” by rival or more powerful communities.
We must not fail to remember (in this connection) that it was through the liberal patronage of the New York Herald and tbe Daily Telegraph newspapers that Mr. Stanley was able to undertake bis eventful journey in 1876, through tbe entire continent from tbe sources to the mouth of tbe Congo, an adventure wbicb, as an exhibition of sheer human courage and endurance, will never probably be surpassed.
Peeface. ix
To those humbler companious of the great explorer, the sons of the soil, who obeyed him because they had learned to trust his word, and to confide in his courage, who followed him not knowing whither they went,” and without whose aid Stanley would have been powerless to secure success, I gladly devote a word of admiration. ‘^Unwept and unsung,”- they are scattered over the East, or have ceased to be. We must freely acknowledge, however, the important services which these dark-skinned children of the land ” rendered in faithfully sharing the toils and perils of their indomitable leader in the noble task which he set himself, of redeeming their continent from oppression and despair.
The Life and Labours of Mr. Stanley fill up the most fascinating, and at the same time most instructive page in the History of Modern Exploration.
With him, in brief, we learn that under all con¬ ditions of life, it is Better far the silent tongue but the eloquent deed : despatch than discourse : and Doing the best answer of all.”
H. W. L.
London, 1890,
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CONTENTS.
CHAPTER I.
Early days — With the Army of the North — Visit to Europe and the Syrian Peninsula — In the Mediterranean — Captured by brigands — With Hancock’s expedition — Indian warfare — A raft-voyage on the Platte Eiver — Herald special corre¬ spondent to Europe and the East .....
CHAPTEE II.
Annesley Bay — Through Abyssinia— - Sir Eobert Napier — The road to Magdala — A forced march — Mountain campaigning —News of Theodore — Eobber villages — Funeral customs — Native allies — Will Theodore fight ? . . . .
CHAPTEE III.
To Magdala — Fruitless delay — Theodore doomed — The arrival of the European prisoners — Attack on the heights — ‘^No powder” — Suicide of the Emperor — Sacking the strong¬ hold — Eeturn to the coast — Eoyal felicitations — “ In perils by waters ” — Home .
CHAPTEE IV.
Troubles in Spain — State of Madrid— Isabella deposed — An important interview at Paris— Constantinople — Eussian intrigue in Central Asia — A Persian famine — The Shah and the telegraph — Bombay to Africa ....
CHAPTEE V.
Busy Zanzibar — The Herald Livingstone Search Expedition — Landing in Africa — Forward to Myamyambe — The lion city — Ugogo and its magnates— Experiences of African travel — Fever and famine — In the game country
PAGE
1
17
35
46
55
Xll
Contents.
CHAPTEE VI.
PAGE
Unyanyembe — War rumours — The expedition delayed — “Killing the road ” — An easy victory — The Bonaparte of Africa —
An eventful night — Mutiny in the ranks — News of Living¬ stone — A clever flank-movement — Ujiji — Livingstone Found — On the Tanganika — A problem solved — Back to Unyanyembe — The terrors of the Masika — Zanzibar once more — Welcome home ! — The Queen congratulates Stanley — A royal gift ........ 77
CHAPTEE VII.
Through Fanteeland to Ashantee — “ The white man’s grave ”
— Sir Garnet Wolseley and “ War Specials” — The road to the Prah — A cruise in the Dauntless — Jack ashore— Ashantee customs — Camp-fire stories — Overtures from King Coffee — Sir Garnet decides to advance without delay — The Prah . . . . 99
CHAPTEE VIII.
To Coomassie — Gifford’s scouts — Ashantee houses — Eelease of the captives — Bush fighting — A stubborn foe — In sight of the capital — A fatal swamp — In Coomassie — The “ Spirit- house ” — Eoyal Treasures — The city in flames — Departure of the troops — The treaty of Founiannah — Eapid journey to the coast — Wolseley and Glover — Stanley as a military critic — The journey home . . . . . .118
CHAPTEE IX.
The “ Herald and Telegraph ” Expedition — Unknown Africa — The heart of the Dark Continent — The sources of the Congo — “Myriads of dusky nations” — Livingstone’s Lu- alaba — Lake Victoria — A visit to Uganda — The hope of Africa — Incidents of lake voyaging — The pirates of Bum- bireh — Eeturn to camp — A noisy welcome . . .134
CHAPTEE X.
More deaths — Mutiny in the camp — Capture of the Lady Alice — Peace with Bumbireh — Back to Uganda — Mtesa on the “ warpath ” — The royal convert — Christ or Mohammed —
A white man’s stratagem — To Muta Ngize — A retreat — Disappointed hopes — The boiling springs of Mtagata — Mirambo, “a perfect African gentleman” — Once more at rest in Ujiji ......... 157
Contents.
xiii
CHAPTEE XI.
PAGE
The mystery of the Lualaba — Livingstone’s legacy — Afloat on the Tanganika — Sad memories — A “south-wester” — The “ Soko ” (gorilla) country — -On the track of Cameron — Friendly overtures declined — Xo letters — Mutiny and death — Strong measures — Native statuary — In the Manyema country — Traces of Livingstone — Heathen testimony to the virtues of the “old white man” — The children loved him — On the banks of the Lualaba — Tippo Tib and the Arabs of Nyangwe — Forward to the ocean ! — A terrible jungle — The expedition in peril — Perpetual strife — Tippo Tib deserts Stanley — The cataracts — Encamped at the Stanley Falls . . . .184
CHAPTEE XII.
Afloat on the Livingstone — Peace and rest — Eiver life — Fighting once more — Stanley Pool — Depressing prospects — The ex¬ pedition starving — A royal visit — “ Thirty-second and last fight ” — The dreaded cataracts —Livingstone Falls — The “ largest goat ” in Africa — ^Disaster and love — Kalulu lost — Drowning of Frank Pocock — Eebellion in the camp — “Tired” — Death in the river — “The politest people in Africa” — The end approaching — “Master, we are dying of hunger ! ” — The Lady Alice abandoned — A painful march — “Food, give us food!” — “Eum, I love rum ! ” —
In correspondence with white men — Eelief appears — “Saved” — Boma — Zanzibar — Home once more . .202
CHAPTEE XIII.
A romance of modern history — The Coinite d’Etudes du Haut Congo — The Brussels Conference — A continental holiday —
A royal patron — At the mouth of the Congo — Stanley’s fleet — Some historical facts — -Tuckey’s farthest — Boma — A de¬ pressing voyage — Steam against water — Choosing a site —
The head-quarters of the new state ..... 229
CHAPTEE XIY.
The lords of Yivi — A novel spectacle — “ The breaker of rocks ”
— The first settlement — Fifty-two miles of road- — Isangila to Manyanga — “ The end at last ” — Blood-brothers — An African pretender — The bad fetish — Stanley Pool once more — AtKintamo — Founding Leopoldville — A land of promise 244
XIV
Contents.
CHAPTER XV.
PAGE
A magnificent watery expanse — Tfie Kwa — An African princess — Royal commands —Lake Leopold 11. — ‘‘Ho fuel, no steam” — Worn to death — A complication of ills — ^Vivi — Home to England — Interview with the Comite at Brussels — Reporting progress — Three years of toil — Back to Vivi — Desolation — Ruin and decay — Deserters — Hew stations founded — Leopoldville a ruin — In peril at Bolobo . .268
CHAPTER XVI.
Splendid scenery — Miles of the forest — Effect of the “ smoke boats ’’ — Hative mendacity — The covenant of blood — Hostile natives — A novel farewell — Equator Station — 770 miles from the Atlantic — Stanley as a peacemaker — “ Bula Matari has spoken ”■ — ^Vivi dismantled — Bolobo in ashes — Progress at Equator Station — Peace with the Bangala —
A born orator— The wild Basoko — On the track of the Arab slavers — A ghastly spectacle — Slaves in chains — Plucky little Binnie — Stanley’s ideal station — Unhappy Vivi —
On board the Kisemho — Six laborious and ‘ bitter ” years — Report of the work of the Expedition — Stanley at Brus¬ sels — Retrospect ....... 285
CHAPTER XVII.
The founding of the Congo Free State — The Berlin Conference — Treaties with natives— Portugal and England stop the way— Difficulties overcome — ^Prince Bismarck — A conven¬ tion signed between the Association Internationale and Great Britain — M. de Brazza — Chief points of the formal convention agreed upon by the Association and the Great Powers— A Free-trade zone — Capabilities of the new state — A Congo railway — The Congo Free State a sovereign and independent power — Completion crowns the work . . 304
CHAPTER XVIII.
Hotes upon the various races of Inner Equatorial Africa —
The Bantus — Baleike — Currency — The Kroomen — Fatal fascination of the gin-bottle — Decline of ancient African monarchies — The King of Congo — Cannibals and dwarfs — Ghastly decorations — Language of the Congo tribes— -Four distinct dialects — The French of the East Coast — Missionary enterprise — The religion of the Congo Tribes — “ Hzambi ”
— Human sacrifices — The poison ordeal — “Some one has done it ! ” — The Bakongo — Daily life — “ A lair of human beasts” — The slave trade on the upper waters . . . 322
Contents*
XV
CHAPTEE XIX.
PAGE
Climate of the Congo region —Wrong impressions — How to live in Equatorial Africa — Sudden changes of temperature™
G-ood spirits essential to health — Flora of the Congo terri- tory~Forests of priceless value — A country abounding in natural wealth-— Tbe ivory harvest— Mineral deposits— Large supplies of copper ore — Iron— Gold and silver — Fauna of the river-basin— African type — -Elephants and zebras— Troops of hippos— The animal life of the Congoese forests and swamps— Belts of primeval forests — Gigantic trees — Lake villages — A word-picture by Cameron . * 342
CHAPTEE XX.
Gordon as Stanley’s successor— Rot to the Congo, hut to Khar¬ toum — Tlie story of the sad Soudan— An expedition to Khartoum sixty years ago~A captive princess — A novel poll-tax — Gold, slaves, and glory — -Forcing the cataracts — “Water mares” — The commencement of the Soudanese slave wars— Tragedy at Shendy — Conquest of Kordofan — Gordon as Governor of the Equatorial Provinces — ^The Mahdi — Eas el Khartoum — The far-off garrisons — Left to perish .......... 365
CHAPTEE XXL
Gordon Pasha’s favourite policy — Eeforming the administration — I will hold the balance level ’’—Emin Pasha — -Early life — At Berlin — On the staff of Hakki Pasha in Syria — Accepts service with the Khedive Ismail — To the Equator — Gordon and Emin at work— Mission to Uganda — The fruits of a righteous rule— Emin defies the Mahdi — Defence of Wadelai — Emin a soldier, doctor, man of science, and linguist— The Emin Pasha Eeliep Expedition— Mr. Stanley asked to lead the enterprise ..... 385
CHAPTEE XXII.
Stanley at the Mansion House — A Freeman of the City — -An errand of mercy and peril — The proposed routes to Wade¬ lai — The perils of the expedition — Stanley declares his plan — He will follow the Congo — ^Farewell to England— Zanzibar — The Congo— The camp on the Ariiwimi- — Prepara¬ tions for the journey overland to Wadelai — Stanley on the march — A word-portrait of Stanley — The explorer at home- — How he wrote Through the Dark Continent ” —
Into the unknown— route to Wadelai . . . . ^09
XVI
Contents.
CHAPTER XXIII.
Good news for Emin — The Pasha holding his own — Letter to Mr. Allen — Emin will not desert his post — Reorganization of the Province — Emin will remain and carry out the policy of his great chief — Unyoro and Uganda in arms — Kabrega a fugitive — A long silence — Letter from Wadelai to Dr. Felkin — Emin is anxiously expecting Stanley and the Relief Expedition — Gathering clouds — The Mahdi moves down upon Wadelai — Summons sent to Emin to surrender his post — No tidings of the expedition— -Emin decides to attack the Mahdi ......
CHAPTER XXIV.
From the Congo to the Albert Nyanza — Stanley and Emin meet — Major Barttelot — Lake Albert Edward — The march to the coast .........
PAGE
428
440
HENEY M. STANLEY.
CHAPTER I.
Early days— -Witt the Army of the North- — ^Visit to Europe and tlie Syrian Peninsula — -In the Mediterranean — Captured by brigands — -With Hancock’s expedition— -Indian warfare— A raft-voyage on the Platte 'Riyqi— Herald special correspondent to Europe and the East.
Henet Mobton Stanley was born at Denbigh in Wales in 1841. The town, which has an eventful history, reaching back to ancient British times, occupies a striking position upon the sides and at the base of a rugged mass of limestone rock, overlooking the rich pastoral scenery of the Vale of Olwyd. It is peaceful enough now, even to dulness. In past days, however, as a mountain stronghold of the native Welsh princes, it was the scene of many stirring and important incidents, and the magnificent ruins of its old castle bear everywhere upon their crumbling walls and broken towers, abundant marks of sieges, struggles, battles and surprises.^’ The locality abounds in romantic traditions of gallant deeds and feats of valour, performed by the ancient heroes of the Principality, and these legends are carefully 'trea¬ sured, and proudly handed down, from father to son, by the simple and warm-hearted peasantry of the district. The Denbigh of to-day is almost entirely
B
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Henet M. Stanley.
given up to trade. It lias a thrifty population of six thousand inhabitants, who are chiefly employed in making shoes and gloves.
The cottage home of Stanley’s parents (a humble but worthy couple) was situated within the precincts of the old fortress, which embraced a large portion of the southern slope of the hill. At an early age, owing to the death of his father, he was placed in the Free School at St. Asaph, where he remained for ten years. Those who knew him at this period describe him as industrious, and by no means wanting in ability. High-spirited, and fond of all physical exercises, he entered with eagerness into the attractive ventures and hazardous exploits of schoolboy life. At the same time he developed a special taste and capacity for mathematics and drawing, and to the future ex¬ plorer of Africa a lesson in geography was always a welcome recreation, rather than a dry task. On a memorable occasion in the history of the school, the boys were invited to the Palace of the Bishop to re¬ ceive their annual prizes for good conduct and pro¬ ficiency in their studies, at the hands of the venerable Prelate. The bright looks and general demeanour of Stanley attracted the notice of the Bishop, who, touching him upon the shoulder, said, This is a clever boy, and if he has bis health, he will make his mark.” The heart of the fatherless boy was cheered by the gift of a Bible, as a special mark of favour from the Bishop. This book was much valued by its pos¬ sessor, through all the changing circumstances and varied fortunes of his youth, and it was taken with pride by him to the Palace some years after, when he returned from the American War in 1866. He had
DSI
A Parish School-Teacher.
3
scarcely reached the age of sixteen when he left St. Asaph to assist a relative who was in charge of the parish school of Mold in Flintshire. At Mold, as for¬ merly at St. Asaph, he appears to have gained the goodwill of his associates in the school, as well as the confidence and esteem of those whom he served. Al¬ though fitted by nature and inclination for a life of activity and bodily exertion, he was able at all times to appreciate and enjoy the companionship of clever books. He read everything that came in his way, and a friend who visited him at Mold on one occasion tells of his surprise at finding him intensely engaged, during the playhours, in the perusal of Dr. Johnson's instructive and charming story of Passelas.” A sturdy frame, full round features, a stubborn will, a quick temper, an attractive venturesomeness, and the air of an uncompromising and deep fellow," were the prominent characteristics of Stanley at this time. It is not surprising, therefore, to find that the quiet, plodding life of a parish school teacher was by no means congenial to his restless and sensitive nature. He sud¬ denly left Mold, and turning northward, he took the shortest road to Liverpool, resolved to find, in some land beyond the seas, a home and fortune for himself. With this purpose in view he made his way through Birkenhead to the crowded, busy quays and docks on the banks of the Mersey. Driven by his destitute con¬ dition to accept any offer of work which might be made him, he accepted an engagement with the captain of a small vessel, of an inferior class, to act as ship’s boy on the passage to Hew Orleans, where he arrived after a dreary voyage of eight weeks. The great and populous port of the Southern States was then at the
B 2
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Henry M. Stanley.
heiglit of its commercial prosperity. Ships of all nations crowded its harbour, and the evidences of commercial success were visible on all sides in the splendid buildings and spacious mansions which adorned this Venice of the Hew World. After some delay Stanley found a suitable post in one of the huge stores near the river, in which the shippers transacted their business. His diligence and energy soon commended him to his employer, who after a time, it is said, actually adopted him as his son. This was an eventful crisis in the career of the young Welshman, and as a practical specimen of his deep sense of the confidence thus shown in him, he determined to take the name of his patron — H. M. Stanley- — in the place of his own, which had up to this time been John Rowlands. Life was now opening in real earnest for him with a fair pro¬ spect of speedy success in his new calling. He was regarded by friends and neighbours as a lucky youth, who would, without doubt, in good time, come to be the head of the house over which his foster- parent presided. His career as a merchant’s clerk was, however, brought to a sudden and complete termination. On the death of his benefactor, the whole of the property was taken over by the relatives of the deceased trader, and Stanley was once more adrift upon the world. He now' made his way to the State of Arkansas, where he remained for two years. On the outbreak of the Civil War in 1861 he enlisted in the Army of the South, joining,” as he said in a speech which he made seven years afterwards, the ranks of the enemies of his country because at the time he knew no better.” Having been taken prisoner in the battle of Pittsburg, on April 6th, 1862, he con-
A CONFEDEEATE SOLDIEE AND FeDEEAL SaILOE. 5
trived to effect his escape, at the peril of his life, by swimming the river, under the fire of the sentries, in the dead of night. Some time after this he reappeared at Bddelwyddan in North "Wales, where his mother had gone to reside. He made only a brief stay, how¬ ever, in his native country, and after spending a few months at Liverpool, he re-embarked for America. The terrible conflict between North and South was still raging, and every effort was made to secure smart and eligible recruits for both services. Stanley was induced to enter the Federal Navy, and was promoted at the end of his first month of duty to the clerkship of the vessel to which he had been drafted. The satisfactory manner in which he discharged the duties of his office soon secured for him the favour¬ able notice of his superiors, and in less than a year we find he had become secretary to the admiral of the fleet on board the flag-ship Ticonderoga, The young writer soon showed something of the spirit thab w^as in him.
During a terrific engagement, in which the flag- ship was constantly under fire, he volunteered to swim off, in the face of a scathing discharge of shell from the enemy's batteries, over a distance of five hundred yards, and attach a hawser to a rebel steamer. This audacious feat was performed with complete success. The prize was drawn out of the harbour, and secured by the flag- ship, and the hero of the adventure was rewarded by being made an ensign upon the quarter¬ deck of the Ticonderoga, Stanley was frequently engaged in important naval operations from this time, and he took an active part in the final assault upon Fort Fisher on January 13th, 1865, which virtually
6
Henry M. Stanley.
decided the fate of the Confederacy. In 1866 the Ticorideroga was ordered to proceed upon a cruise in Southern Europe, and in the summer of that year,, Stanley obtained leave of absence and left his ship at Constantinople, with a view to revisiting his Welsh home. His appearance amongst his old friends in the smart uniform of the United States Havy, and the accounts which had reached Denbigh and the neigh¬ bourhood, of his prosperous and distinguished career across the Atlantic, combined to make him now a person of some distinction and fame. He was heartily welcomed on all sides, and his reception at St. Asaph, when he visited his old school, was most enthusiastic. He addressed the boys who were assembled to greet him in a cheery, practical speech, full of useful exhorta¬ tions to ready obedience at all times to the call of duty. The boys were entertained at Mr. Stanley’s expense, and they were granted the usual holiday in honour of their friend and visitor. It was previous to this visit to the Principality that Stanley met with some thrill¬ ing experiences with armed outlaws in the heart of Syria. During the visit of the fleet to Constantinople, with two companions, he penetrated the country for about 100 miles east of Smyrna, when the party was attacked by brigands, who robbed them of everything they possessed and barely allowed them to escape witli their lives. The unfortunate travellers returned to Constantinople, where their leader, with characteristic energy, at once wrote a graphic and telling account of their treatment to the Levant Herald^ and com¬ plained in no measured terms of the deplorable con¬ dition of the Turkish provinces in Syria, and of the otiose and indifferent attitude of the authorities in
Adventuees in Asia Minoe.
7
tliat province, where there seemed to be no real pro¬ tection for either life or property. The letter was as follows
OuTEAGE ON AmEEIOAN TeAVELLEES.
To the Editor of the Levant HeraldE
‘‘SiE, — When about seven hours from Afiuna-Kara- Hissar, on the 18th September, en route for Tiflis and Thibet via Erzeroum, from Smyrna, I and my two companions, Mr. H. W. Cook of Illinois, and Master Lewis Noe of New York, were attacked by a band of robbers, hailing from the village of Chi-Hissar, headed by a fellow named Achmet of Kara-Hissar, and robbed of all our money, valuables and clothing, to the tune of about 80,000 piastres. It would occupy too much space were I to enter into minor details ; suffice it to state that after robbing us, they conveyed us as prisoners in triumph to Ohi-Hissar, accusing us of being robbers, which brought down on our devoted heads unparalleled abuse from the villagers : the women pelted us with stones, the children spat at us, the men belaboured us unmercifully with sticks, clubs, and fire-tongs. Not comprehending in the least what direction affairs had taken, I must say for myself that I was plunged in a state of stupefaction not un¬ mingled with rage, as to how and why we were thus treated. We had instantly acquiesced in all their demands, and were as docile as lambs in their hands, and though when attacked we were armed with the best Sharp’s fliers and Colt’s revolvers, we had offered no resistance.
‘‘ When night arrived they bound us with cords, drawn so tight round our necks that it nearly pro-
8
Heney M. Stanley.
duced strangulation, in which, suffering condition they allowed us to remain twelve hours. During the night three of our captors, Vely, Muet, and Mustapha, when all seemed buried in slumber, committed the diabolical — [it is not necessary to describe the outrage. Suffi¬ cient to say that it was of a very shameful character, and that the lad was coerced into silence by the robbers flourishing over his head a long knife, with a signifi¬ cant threat to cut his throat]. No explanations that they can render can gloss over the wanton cruelty and malignant treatment to which we have been subjected.
Next day, two of them conveyed us, bound, with the most daring effrontery imaginable, to a small town called Eashi Keiu, with the statement that we were robbers, when, of course, we were powerless to explain the mystery that hung over us. We were treated as prisoners, accompanied by the most cruel abuses ; chains were hung round our necks, like garlands, for the night. From this place we were sent to Afiuna- Kara-Hissar, where we received the benefit of an inter¬ preter, in the person of Mr. L. D. Peloso, agent of the Ottoman Bank at that place, who acquitted himself very creditably in that capacity ; the fruits of which were that we were immediately freed from ‘ durance vile.’ Nor did his generosity stay here ; he lent us ample funds, procured us comfortable rooms at the Khan, and fed and clothed us, thus acting the part of a good Samaritan to three unfortunates. And again, through his energetic and repeated appeals to Kaouf Bey, the sub-governor of that place, all the robbers were arrested. A strict search was made by soldiers in the village, and about forty piastres and two or
A War Correspokdent.
9
three articles of clothing were recovered. The prisoners Achmet, Ibrahim, Hassar, Mustapha, Beker, Vely, Muet, and three others were sent under strong guard to Broussa, there to be detained till tried accord¬ ing to law. We arrived at Constantinople via Broussa yesterday, to lay our case before the American Minister, through whose influence I hope justice will be meted out to the unbaptized rogues. Hoping you will give this letter a small space in your valuable paper, I remain one of the victimized.
'' Henry Stanley.
^^Pera, October 11th.’’
Through the kindness of the Hon. Jay Morris, the American representative at the Sublime Porte, assist¬ ance was at once afforded to the sufferers, who pre¬ sented themselves at the private residence of the minister in a most deplorable and destitute condition.
In 1867 an expedition, under the leadership of General Hancock, was organized for the suppression of the Sioux, Cheyenne, and Kivia tribes of Indians, who had for some time been making formidable and brutal raids upon the more exposed railways of the North- Western States. Stanley accompanied the troops in the capacity of correspondent for the New York Tribune and the Missouri Democrat, and distinguished himself not so much by the style as by the matter of his descriptive letters to the papers he represented at the scene of operations. He displayed a wonderful patience in obtaining facts and information, and often ran great personal risks in his desire to have the earliest and most reliable news of any fresh incident of the campaign. This was his second actual commis-
10
Henet M. Stanley.
sion as a War Special/’ a calling as perilous as it is honourable in which he has since gained the highest eminence. The qualifications requisite for an efficient “ Special Correspondent ” are various in kind and many in number. In the exercise of his vocation he has indeed *^to play many parts.” A splendid physique, a cool head under fire, a keen eye to take in at a glance the physical features and peculiarities of a district, an intimate knowledge of military strategy and the tactics of war, an unflinching courage, great prudence and sagacity in communicating his facts, a smart style, a fluent pen under all circumstances of climate or health, expert horsemanship, business tact, and a capacity for enduring fatigue and privations — these are only a few of the characteristics of a success¬ ful ‘‘ War Special.” The accounts of Hancock’s expedition, published in the Tribune and Democrat, soon attracted public attention, and they were ac¬ knowledged by literary critics to have been written by a man who knew his work. Efforts were at once made by the leading journals of America to secure the services of the graphic pen which had depicted so powerfully the various phases of the latest conflict between civilization and savagery in the Ear West. Meanwhile, the now famous “ newspaper man ” was returning at his leisure, with a solitary companion, upon a rude raft which he had constructed and launched upon the Platte river, and iipon which he accomplished a journey of over seven hundred miles without a mishap. He preferred this method of travel, he said, to the dull and dreary monotony of the coach-road. Leaving the river when he reached the Missouri, he crossed overland to K’evv York, where he
With Lord JSTapier m Abyssinia.
11
found the proprietor of the Herald ready to offer him the lucrative but responsible position of travelling correspondent to that journal. The offer was accepted (1868), and Stanley was ordered to proceed without delay to Europe, and attach himself to the British forces under Sir Bobert Napier, who was about to invade Abyssinia, in order to crush the power of King Theodore, the inhuman monarch of that country, who had excited the indignation of all civilized nations by his barbarous treatment of a band of European missionaries and artisans, whom he had seized and imprisoned in his remote and well-nigh impregnable fortress of Magdala. The gallant oflScer who had charge of the expedition was already distinguished by a succession of brilliant military services in India and the Far East. He had been mentioned in despatches for the manner in which he had discharged the responsible duties of brigade-major in the arduous and exhausting Sutlej campaigns, in which he had received a severe wound, which, for a time, unfitted him for active employment. At the siege of Moultan he had directed the operations of the corps of Boyal Engineers as acting chief , and been again severely wounded. As commander of the Engineers durirg the assault on Lucknow he had been awarded high honours for the ability and sagacity with which he had planned and carried out the complicated system of field and siege works, which eventually effected the overthrow of the city (1858). He was made a K.C.B. for this achievement and received the thanks of Parliament. In 1861 Napier had been ordered to China, to assist in the combined attack by both arms of the service, upon Pekin, a walled town of enormous strength, with a mixed population
12
Heney M. Stanley.
of over a million Tartars and Chinese. The citj, which occupied a formidable position about one hundred miles from the sea, near the Peiho river, soon fell into the hands of the British, with all its treasures, and the skill, energy, and intrepidity’’ displayed by h^apier in the course of these extensive and difficult operations again secured for him the thanks of the Parliament, as well as the admiration of the entire French and English forces engaged in the war. The son of Major 0. F. hlapier, E.E., he was born at Ceylon, during his father’s term of duty in that island. In due course he went to the military college at Addiscombe, and entered the Bengal Engineers in 1826. He obtained captain’s rank in 1841, and rendered good service at this period to the Indian army generally by the promotion of the Lawrence Asylums for soldiers’ orphans. His experience in the frontier wars with the half-savage Husseinzai and Afreedee tribes, and as commander of a flying column which was sent out to hunt down the rebel commander Tantia Topee, admirably qualified him for the special work which lay before him amongst the hills of Abyssinia. The march to Magdala was by no means an undertaking to be lightly entered upon. The region to be traversed by the invading force was to a great extent a land of mystery. Eeliable information as to the physical features, population, and resources of the territory had to be mainly gleaned from the records of Bruce and Beke, the only travellers who had actually made anything like a detailed examina¬ tion of the region. Up to the time that Sir E. Hapier landed at Massowah, the only port of Abyssinia, the country, although presenting every attraction to the
What Abyssinia is.
13
traveller and the man of science, was, strange to saj, almost a terra incognita even to our geographers and explorers. The kingdom of the doomed monarch was found to consist of a wedge-shaped area of highland, rising in a series of plateaux to an average elevation of six thousand feet, with a small coast-line bordering on the Red Sea, and surrounded by the desert sands and steppes of the Egyptian Soudan. Lofty serrated mountain-ranges, with towering and rugged peaks reaching in some cases to an altitude of sixteen thousand feet, rise out of these tracts of table-land, and the hill-ranges are intersected and broken in all directions by deep and almost inaccessible ravines and low-lying valleys. The Blue hTile, and the Atabora, the sole tributary of the united Nile, have their sources in the recesses of the Abyssinian mountains, and these dark, turbid streams, heavily laden with the rich, loamy soil, which is carried down by their head¬ long rush in the season of the tropical rains, go to swell the majestic volume of the great Egyptian river, which empties its waters into the Mediterranean, after pursuing a direct course of over three thousand miles. Owing to the peculiar position and conformation of the country, the traveller in ascending from the lowlands to the more elevated regions, passes through three distinct zones of temperature. The valleys and low-lying districts are tropical, the hill¬ sides present more or less the conditions of life which are found in a temperate climate, whilst in the high¬ lands the temperature is identical with that of Northern Europe. In the Kolias or tropical belt of temperature, which ranges from 3000 to 4000 feet above the sea-level, and which embraces the lower
14
Henry M. Stanley.
edges of the plateaux, vegetation in all the glory of tropical luxuriance abounds. The cotton-tree, gum- yielding acacias, the ebony, tbe sugar-cane, bananas and dates are cultivated to the highest perfection, and in the forests are found the lion, the elephant, the zebra, the panther and the antelope.
The Wonnia Degas or temperate belt is the richest and most habitable. It has the climate of Spain and Italy, and produces European grasses, hard-shell fruits, the apricot, peach, citron and vine, and its verdant and prolific pastures sustain multitudes of domestic animals, among which all those familiar to Europeans are found, except the pig.
The Degas or highland belt, which takes in all the country between about 9000 and 14,000 feet, consists of the loftier plains and the slopes of the numberless Alpine ranges or cluster of hills which break the surface of the country in all directions. In this region there is little wood, the cultivation of the soil is neglected, snow and ice are prevalent in winter, and life is altogether harder and less attractive than in the lower districts of the country. This region is not without a sombre and awful beauty, however. The vast panorama of jagged peaks, the knots of sharp and lofty hills, inter¬ sected by deep narrow abysses and impassable chasms, re-echoing with the noise and tumults of the foaming torrents which sweep through them, and the tiny towns perched like birds’-nests high up upon some crag or peak of barren rock, and only to be reached by rope ladders, or slings rudely fashioned from a raw ox-hide — are some features of a picture which is impressive, if not altogether delightful. In June and September the country is flooded by an unremitting
Who the Abyssinians are.
15
downpour of tliunder- showers and tropical rains. Every brook becomes a stream, and every stream is swollen into a river, which rushes down the steep declivities of the plateaux and scours a way for itself with terrific force, till it reaches the plain and is lost in some affluent of the ancient and mighty I^ile.
The area of Abyssinia was one hundred and fifty thou¬ sand square miles, with a sparse and scattered semi- barbarous population of three millions. It was divided up into a number of small states, out of which Vt^ere formed the three important provinces of Tigre in the north, Shoa in the south, and the central state of Am- bara. There are many interesting relics of an ancient and remote civilization, and from a study of these it is evident that the people as a nation have retro¬ graded with the passage of the centuries, rather than progressed. The present inhabitants are a mixed race, but the Arab type predominates. Their colour varies from a rich bronze to deep black. Their religion is a peculiar form of very debased Christianity. There is an important Jewish element in the population, which claims unbroken descent from the Patriarchs, and is distinguished by a higher moral tone than that which prevails amongst their neighbours. These Palashes, as they are called, are the husbandmen and artisans of the country. Mohammedanism was planted in the up¬ lands of Tigre as far back as a.d. 622, by the family of the great prophet of Islam, who fled to the security of these mountain fastnesses during that eventful crisis in the fortunes of Mohammed known as the Hegira, or the flight, when he himself had to seek refuge for a time in a desert cave, from the fury of his disappointed converts. The Portuguese attempted to settle in the
16
Henry M. Stanley.
northern province in the seventeenth century, but they did not remain. Some traces of their presence are still to be seen in the finished artistic productions of the native weavers and jewellers, and in the splendid castle of Gondar, which, although the capital, is now only a city of ruins.
CHAPTER 11.
Annesley Bay — Througb. Abyssinia-~Sir Eobert E’apier^ — Tbe road to Magdala — A forced marcb — Mountain campaigning — Kews of Theodore — Eobber villages — Funeral customs ^ — Native allies — Will Theodore fight?
In ]N"ovember, 1867, tbe Englisb army, a small but compact aud carefully selected force, of about 14,000 rank and file, began to arrive at Annesley Bay. The point of debarkation was the best that could be found, after careful search, along the low narrow slip of Abyssinian coast-line. It was exposed to the full blaze of the African sun ; the atmosphere, at times, was unbearable, and there was no water to be had for miles round the hastily-constructed pier of Zoulla. But the position afforded easy access to the table-lands of the interior, and at the same time afforded excel¬ lent and safe anchorage for the fleet of transport and steamers engaged in conveying war-material and stores to the invaders. It would be difficult to imagine any place more desolate, and wanting in natural attractive¬ ness. For fifteen miles inland a dreary waste of sand, broken by rugged boulders, and covered by patches of stunted bush and coarse herbage, stretched away to the mouth of the enormous rift in the hills through which lay the only road to Magdala.
The district produced no sustenance for man or beast, and the natives even avoided it at certain seasons of the year, as quite unfitted for human habitation.
0
18
Heney M. Stanley.
But the arrival of the Eeringhees ” (as the foreigners were called in the native tongue) suddenly threw life and colour into the scene, and turned the desert into a flourishing commercial settlement, and an important naval and military entrepot, which soon became the centre of a busy trafiic between the friendly natives from the highlands and the Government agents, who were instructed to buy up all the forage and rice which was brought into market. For the first few weeks confusion reigned supreme in the novel and over¬ crowded station, and when Mr. Stanley landed, he found everything in the settling down ” stage.
Myriadsof human beings,of all nations and languages, had been gathered together to assist in discharging and housing the cargoes brought ashore from the shipping in the Bay. Mules, camels, elephants, horses, cows, coolies, natives, Parsees, sailors, soldiers, Arabs, Greeks and Jews, were all mixed up in a motley crowd, which presented at every turn some new feature of in¬ terest or amusement. A small railway had been con¬ structed as far as Komayli, an encampment a few miles up the country, along which heavily laden trans¬ port waggons were constantly passing, and the busy and tumultuous scene was bounded by the deep waters of the Bay, upon whose heaving and glittering surface lay hundreds of vessels of all sizes, from the superb British ironclad to the tiny and fleet-winged Arab felucca. The sudden collapse of the commissariat de¬ partment threatened to bring disaster upon the under¬ taking thus early in the history of the Expedition. The report furnished by Colonel Merewether as to the resources of the country had been much too sanguine, and the ofiicers and heads of departments looked in
Stanley aeeives at Zoulla.
19
vain, on tlieir arrival, for the flowing streams, rich pastures, prolific forests, and unlimited supplies of game to be had for the hunting, which had been pro¬ mised them. The mortality amongst the herds of baggage animals, which were landed without drivers or attendants to look after them, was fearful. Thou¬ sands died for want of water, and their putrid carcases scattered about the shore in the tropical heat, added to the unpleasantness and danger of the situation. Order was at length evolved out of chaos, and when Sir E. l^apier arrived with his staff upon the scene of opera¬ tions, he immediately decided to prepare for the advance in force. The army at his disposal was con¬ stituted roughly as follows : oflicers, 250 ; European troops, 4250 ; Native Indian troops, 9447. The camp followers numbered 26,214 ; the civilian traders and others, 433 ; and the women followers, 140, making a grand total of 41,000 combatants and non-combatants. The number of animals imported for the purposes of the campaign were 46, 659, viz. : horses, 2538 ; elephants, 44; mules, 16,000; ponies, 1651; camels, 4735 ; donkeys, 1759; bullocks, 7071 ; and sheep, 12,839.
Stanley at once found himself thrown upon his own resources. He knew no one amongst the many thousands of persons of all countries and degrees who composed the population of Zoulla. He had no tent, horses, or servants for the journey to the uplands, and no suitable equipage for the arduous enterprise upon which he was about to enter. But he was equal to the situation. Being happily provided with a com¬ mendatory letter to an officer in the English camp, he sought him out and delivered the epistle. He found the gallant captain who was destined to be his friend
0 2
20
Henry M. Stanley.
in need/* occupying a handsome and delightfully ap¬ pointed canvas-house, carefully separated from the rest of the camp by a fence of baubool. Hot seeing any one about, the crafty War Special ’* drew atten¬ tion to his presence by pulling at the tent-cover. A languid voice at once called upon the visitor to enter, and he found the owner of the very pleasant abode, reclining in the airiest of costumes upon a couch, evidently overcome for the time by the enervating effects of the tropical atmosphere. Stanley thus describes the scene.
I came to see Captain Z - of the Commissariat,
sir ! ” said I, surprised at his nonchalance’ in the presence of a stranger. ^ Are you the 'gentleman ? * I asked.
‘ Yes, I am the gentleman,’ he replied, slightly lifting his eyebrows. ‘Who are you, and what do you want?’
‘ I am the bearer of a letter of introduction to you
from Major S - ,’ said I, at the same time bending
forward to hand him the letter. ‘ Hum, ah ! to be
sure ; Major S - , aw ! let me see. Won’t you sit
down ? Excuse my indolence ; this country is so hot that it melts the marrow in a fellow’s bones ! ’
He had half-risen when he commenced to deliver this apology, but directly relapsed into his former attitude with a deep sigh of relief, turning an almost helpless look upon me before he read his letter, which told as well as volumes of the anguish he had suffered in rising.
Soda-water and brandy having been called for by my host, and served by a dark-featured native, to the great relief of both of us, I asked if I could procure a tent and rations.
Delivees a Letter of Introduction.
21
^ Oh, yes/ replied the Captain ; ‘ easy enough. Make out your indent. No, let me see. First, you
will have to go to Major X- - , and get an order for
your rations and a tent, after which you will be pretty comfortable.’
Major X - , he further told me, was Acting - of
the Force at Zoulla, ^ a very nice gentleman, splendid fellow, first-rate chap ; do anything in the world ’ for me ! Wishing to see this paragon of an officer, and
settle my business, I bade Captain Z - ‘ a good
morning,’ telling him I should see him again before long.
I was about to depart when the Captain bawled out, ‘I say, you; can you dine at our mess, and would you please consider yourself as an honorary member of ours while you are in camp ? We have a fine set of chaps, all perfect gentlemen. There’s A - of the Commis¬ sariat, B - 5 an old sailor, now Bunder-master ; then
there is C— — of the 3rd Light Cavalry, D- — - of the Elephant lines, and lastly, we have E— — of the Bom¬ bay. Do come, will you ? Be sure now I dinner sharp 9 p.m. Ta-ta, old fellah ! ’
^ Certainly, my dear Captain, with the greatest pleasure. Au revoir, Ta-ta, old fellah ! ’ and out I departed to find the quarters of that * splendid chap,’ Major X—.” '
Making his way with difficulty over the hot sand, the Herald correspondent at length reached the quarters of Major X^ — — , who furnished him with the order for a tent, a mule with all accoutrements, rations for himself and followers, and other necessaries for the road. Determined to get to the front, without ^ Coomassie and Magdala” (H. M. Stanley).
22
Henry M. Stanley.
loss of time, in order to secure, if possible, some tidings of the movements and intentions of Theodore from the advanced scouts and spies, he completed his outfit, and decided upon his mode of travelling directly on landing, and on the morning of his second day in Abyssinia he started southward upon his memorable journey, in the van of the steadily advancing columns. As he left the sea-board, the country assumed a new and brighter aspect. The scenery was in places almost terrible in its massive and towering grandeur. The road which had been roughly levelled along the beds of empty watercourses and up the sides of the hills, by a party of pioneers under Colonel Phayre, was a marvel of engineering skill and patient toil. In parts it rose suddenly from some yawning chasm, up the perpendi¬ cular cliffs of solid rock, only to descend again into some gorge or hollow, deeper than ever, and the pioneers had often to blast or break a path in the granite slopes or slate-stone precipices for the passage of the troops. Progress along this rudely extem¬ porised way was not only tedious, but exhausting to body and mind. Ten miles was the average length of a day’s journey. Arriving at the camp of Komayli, Stanley for the first time found himself in contact with the native races of the country. In the bazaar, which occupied a site which a few months before was the centre of a mere desert, he was surprised to see an extensive trade going on, under temporary awnings and tents of reed and straw — London, Paris, Delhi, Cairo, Turkey, Greece — all were represented in the goods displayed for the inspection of buyers, whilst native produce of all kinds was on sale, and found ready purchasers.
Eiding to the Feont.
23
The tent which Major X — had caused to be issued to Stanley, had been left on the coast with other impedi¬ menta, as the Herald correspondent desired above all things to “ travel as quickly as possible towards Magdala.” A buffalo-robe was therefore the only protection he allowed himself at this time in his bivouacs upon the bare earth. The early morning saw him again in the saddle, climbing step by step some narrow defile, with hu^e walls of solid stone towering to a height of 800 feet on each side of the mountain- path, where the echo of the human voice rang like thunder through the pass, and the fall of a hoof upon the stones resembled a discharge of musketry. Many of these rents in the hills were gloomy, and full of weird sounds and shadows, and it was always a wel¬ come change to emerge from their chill and melan¬ choly depths into the fresh air and bright sunshine of the open country which lay bejond them. Viewed from these lofty tablelands, the surrounding prospect is one of striking magnificence on all sides, and it is from these altitudes that the eye is able for the first time to realize the majesty and rugged beauty of the irregular mountain systems which give a distinctive character to all Abyssinian scenery. Xo definite tidings of the enemy had yet reached the vanguard of pioneers, although every effort had been made to obtain news by means of the native scouts who over¬ spread the entire kingdom of Theodore. Meanwhile, the avengers were cautiously but steadily advancing towards the stronghold of the tyrant. Would he fight?’’ was the question eagerly asked by the soldiers of each other, as they tramped resolutely on. Xo one could tell. The native chiefs who came into
24
Heney M. Stanley.
camp to barter produce, or to make treaties of amity with the General, would give no definite opinion.
Todoro might, they thought, offer a stubborn re¬ sistance, or he might in a paroxysm of terror yield up his prisoners, and capitulate to save his own life — this was the substance of the native view of the situation.
The history of Theodore III., Emperor of Ethiopia by the power of God, as he styled himself, was not with¬ out many points of romantic interest. He was of obscure birth, but having heard somewhere of a certain prophecy as to a Messiah who should be born in Abyssinia, and deliver the Holy Land from the dominion of the infidels, he assumed the character of a prophet, and declared himself to be the person whose coming had been so long predicted and looked for. Brave in battle, strong in frame, and highly in¬ telligent, he gradually increased his power and the number of his adherents. Asserting that he was ordained of God to extirpate all Mohammedan nations, he attracted to himself vast multitudes of followers, and in 1851 he assumed supreme dominion over the whole region of Abyssinia. He was at this time thirty-five years of age. He decided to evacuate Gondar, the ancient capital of the land. I will have no capital,” said this Napoleon of Africa ; ^^my head shall be the empire, and my tent the capital.” He encouraged European artisans to settle in his dominions, and for some years his reign promised to be a time of blessing and prosperity to his people. Missionaries were courteously received by the young Emperor, schools were opened, and educational schemes for the regular instruction of his subjects were discussed and adopted by Theodore.
Brutality of King Theodore. 25
Suddenly, however, upon the death of his favourite wife, he gave way to intemperate habits, and to fearful fits of brutality and violence. Horrible punish¬ ments were inflicted upon innocent victims. Crucifixion and the torture were his favourite methods of punish¬ ment. Upon the arrival of Mr. Consul Cameron, Theodore addressed an oflicial letter to the English Government, which reached Earl Bussell at the Foreign Office, in February, 1863. Some unfortunate mistake in the policy of the Government with reference to affairs in Egypt, the ancient enemy of Abyssinia, and the neglect of Theodore’s communication, roused the sensitive monarch to a state of ungovernable fury. Cameron, then on a visit to the court, was cast into prison (July, 1863). Stern, a missionary, was beaten because he covered his mouth to prevent a shout of anguish when he saw his wretched servants scourged to death before his eyes. Theodore, suspecting that Stern was using some sign of vengeance, at once had him thrown upon the ground, and in accents of raving passion yelled out, “ Beat that man ! beat him as you would a dog; beat him, I say!” One by one the Europeans in the country were deprived of their liberty, loaded with chains, and cast into noisome dungeons, whence they were taken at times to be tortured and degraded with indignities, and then sent back with the threat that they would soon be executed. This awful condition of suspense and misery lasted for four years. All means were tried by the English Foreign Office to secure the release of the captives. Messengers, letters, presents — all proved of no avail. The Consul was taken from the wretched hut in which he was fastened by a chain to the wall, and horribly treated.
26
Henry M. Stanley.
“Twenty Abyssinians/’ lie said, “tugged lustily on ropes tied to each limb until I fainted. My shoulder- blades were made to meet each other. I was doubled up until my head appeared under my thighs, and while in this painful posture, I was beaten with a whip of hippopotamus-hide on my bare back, until I was covered with weals, and while the blood dripped from my reeking back, I was rolled in the sand.”
In 1866, after offering aheavy money ransom for the liberation of the miserable, and by this time despairing prisoners, which was indignantly and peremptorily re¬ fused by the mad monarch, it was determined to deliver the unhappy people by force of arms. The idea of an Expedition into the heart of Abyssinia was at first severely criticized in the English press. Untold dangers, it was declared, awaited the troops, from reptiles, fevers, wild beasts, impassable roads, inaccessible heights tempests, the well-known treachery of the people, poisoned wells, and a most fatal form of dysentery which prevailed in the hot season in all the provinces. But the decree had gone forth, and Theodore was a doomed man. Indian troops were to be employed in the enterprise, and only the necessary equipments and baggage animals were to be drawn from Europe. The force was not to exceed 12,000 men ; 2000 to protect the pier and settlement at Zoulla, and afford a garrison for the highland post of Senafe, 2000 for Antalo, a point about half-way on the road to Magdala from Annesley Bay, 2000 to protect the convoys and secure free communication with the base of operations, and 6000 for the march into the interior in search of the implacable tyrant, who was known to be somewhere amongst the mountain fastnesses of the South. The
Dangees of the Eoad to Magdala.
27
distance to be covered was sometliing under 400 miles, and witb interpreters, guides, an abundant medical staff, and Captain Speedy, a former favourite officer of Theodore, a man of gigantic frame, and great sagacity and ability, as the Political Agent to negotiate with the princes of the native provinces, the valiant little force set forth to vindicate once more the honour and humanity of old England.
Great care was taken to secure the friendship and goodwill of the various tribes along the route the troops had to traverse. This important duty was entrusted to Major James Grant, C.B., who had already become known through his connection with the Mle Explora¬ tion, and it is pleasant to be able to state that no trouble of any kind was experienced by the Expedition from a breach of these temporary treaties of good¬ will by the Ethiopian chiefs.
Travelling in the Abyssinian highlands without a good escort is by no means unattended by danger. Hordes of hill-robbers, the dreaded Gallas, occupy the darker and more intricate paths, and suddenly fall upon the incautious or unarmed horseman, and after divesting him of his possessions, including his horse and clothing, disappear as mysteriously as they came. These brigands live in curiously placed villages built high up on the slopes or |)eaks of the remotest mountain ridges, whence the cry of the alert watch¬ man can be constantly heard signalling the approach of enemies, or the possibility of securing fresh plunder as the case may be. The woods resound with the cries of the butcher-bird, and the clock-bird, and troops of monkeys may be seen occupying in noisy state the wide-spreading branches of the sycamore-trees. An
28
Heney M. Stanley.
Abyssinian village might well be described as a miserable hamlet of low mud hovels, about which the children scramble in a disgusting state of greasy hlth, and without any clothing whatever. The adults, who affect some decency of attire, like to bask in the sun, or idle away the time between meals, lying in the shade, and discussing the tidings of the day with the last new-comer.
The colour of the people, as has been before re¬ marked, varies in shade. Some of the highland tribes are nearly white ; other sections of the population, especially those with Negro blood in their veins, are black as Nubians. The hair is plaited by both sexes in long tails, which are usually coiled up at the top of the head. Their houses, churches and palaces all showed deplorable signs of a vulgar and degraded taste in personal and domestic matters.
The arrival of Stanley at Shoho, an important native market in the vicinity of one of the British camps, created, he tells us, great and undisguised astonish¬ ment. The whole population turned out into the street to gaze upon him. One detachment after another scanned the Feringhee, and every motion of eye, hand, or lip was most carefully noted. The colour of the eyes, skin, hair, the shape of the limbs, the tone of voice — all these matters were evidently subjects of mysterious bewilderment to the sable or brown-skinned spectators, who said nothing, but simply gazed with a wondering stare at the phenomenon in their midst, with feelings quite too deep for words. The houses are rudely constructed of red clay, with a thatch of straw or reed and a top- cover of mud to keep the whole secure and solid. An Abyssinian funeral pre-
Funeral Forms.
29
sents an odd mixture of Christian forms with, the ritual observances of a barbarous and benighted superstition. All the people of a neighbourhood are expected to at¬ tend the burial of the dead. The corpse is wrapped in the everj-day attire of the deceased, and is carried by the elders of the village or family, with hideous howls and gesticulations to the grave. Crowds of men, wo¬ men, and children follow the body, and keep up a frightful din all along the route of the procession till the cemetery is reached. Everything is done in a most slovenly and irreverent manner. The priests are ignorant and needy, and seem only anxious about their tithes, which the people appear to pay with readiness. During the progress of the funeral ceremonies the clergy strive to outdo the laity in the extravagance and violence of their outward manifestations of sorrow. They first shout out from rude and antiquated missals the requiem for the departed in jerks and snatches, and then by way of variety they attack their own headgear, ripping into shreds the long folds of linen and silk which form their turbans, concluding the absurd and heathenish performance by plucking out their hair by the roots and casting it upon the ground. The churches are dark, gaudy, and unclean as a rule, even to foulness, and their whole system of religious observance is painfully marred and degraded by a coarseness and want of spirituality, which reveals the sad depth to which the once famous and venerated 'church of Ethiopia has fallen.^
At Antalo, the half-way station on the road to Mag- dala, Stanley came up with the Pioneer detachment under Colonel Phayre, and found the place in a state ^ See Coomassie and Magdala ” (H. M. Stanley), p. 209.
30
Henry M* Stanley.
of intense excitement, and busily preparing for the re^ ception, with due honours, of the Commander-in-chief and the main body of the forces. Up to this point the energetic and alert representative of American journal¬ ism had pursued his way, with one or two companions, without attaching himself to the main body of the army. It was necessary now, however, that he should present his credentials to the Chief of the Expedition without further delay, and on the morning after the arrival of Sir E. Hapier at Antalo he went to head¬ quarters and asked for an interview with the General, who received him with courtesy, and after inquiring as to his needs, promised him every assistance, and as¬ sured him that he should have the same privileges as to special items of intelligence which were enjoyed by the other gentlemen of the Press who accompanied the staff. At the Generahs table in the evening, Stanley was introduced to the officers, and also had the oppor¬ tunity of becoming acquainted with the various corre¬ spondents of the English papers— viz. : Dr. Charles Austin, D.C.L., Times ; George A. Henty, Esq., Standard; W. Owen Whiteside, Esq., Morning Post; Alexander Shepherd, Esq., Daily News ; Mr. Adare, Daily Telegraph, The Press Tent was a perfect abode of harmony, and true fellowship/and the most social lovable, and good-tempered mess in the Army.^’
Affairs now began to assume a more business-like aspect as the serious work of the campaign might open at any moment. Orders were issued for the curtail¬ ment of baggage, kits were not to exceed seventy-five pounds in weight, and only two horses were allowed to each officer, whilst twelve soldiers were to occupy one tent, and two officers were directed to share the
Brother Correspondents. — Theodore’s Fury. 31
same accommodation for tlie future between them. Forward went the Pioneers once more, and everybody, from General to bugler, felt that something w^as about to happen. Many weary leagues of mountain and ra¬ vine had yet to be covered, however, before the blow could be struck which would for ever destroy the do¬ minion of Theodore, and set free the unhappy victims of his impotent fury. The spies came in day by day with fresh but painfully conflicting scraps of informa¬ tion as to the movements of the King. One by one the tribes which had professed allegiance to him, in his days of triumph, were rising against him. His army was crumbling to pieces, and he was powerless to prevent the wholesale desertions from his standard. His revolting cruelty, in his hours of drunken delirium, only exasperated those whom he sought to restrain by fear. The foreign prisoners in his camp he treated with increased severity. 30,000 of his own subjects were reputed to have been slaughtered by him in less than three months. The rulers of provinces, and the tribal leaders turned in terror from the service of the Lion of Ethiopia,” to the assistance of the brave man, who with calm singleness of purpose was making his way into the heart of the land, in spite of all obsta¬ cles, to seek out and chastise the inhuman oppressor of his people. On March 14th, the head of the column left Antalo. Theodore was known to be withdrawing with a force of 30,000 men to the shelter of his fortress of Magdala. The Prince of Tigre, the "King of Shoa, the Prince ofSamea, and notabilities of less degree had taken active steps to aid the General by hanging on the flanks of Theodore’s dwindling hosts, or by taking measures to cut ofl his retreat in the event of a battle. Nature,
32
Henry M. Stanley.
for tlie time, however, appeared to have arrayed her¬ self upon the side of the tyrant. The difficulties of the road increased as the end drew near. The skill of the engineers, and the fortitude of the men were tried to the uttermost.
Still onward lay the narrow path over those sky- wrapt walls of granite,’’ along which the road twisted and turned like the windings to the summit of a cathedral spire.” Elephants, camels, horses, and mules, as well as men, staggered along footsore and weary up the precipices and down the almost perpendicular sides of those terrible ravines, till human endurance could sometimes bear the strain no longer ; and strong men fell out and fainted by the way. Again and again it was seen that Theodore had overlooked splendid opportunities which his country afforded everywhere for the total destruction of the little band of valiant men who were slowly track¬ ing him to his mountain lair. A barrel of gunpowder, judiciously placed, would have brought down the rocks which overhung many a pass, and put a stop at once and for ever to the progress of his enemies. But fate had ordained it otherwise. That Theodore was by no means ignorant of the art of making or destroying roads was amply proved by the causeway he had constructed a few weeks before through the solid basalt, and which was now utilized by the English General. Traces of iron implements were perceived on all sides of the ravine, and the man who could construct a road could also kill ” it. Other matters of even greater import¬ ance, however, doubtless occupied the brain of the dis¬ mayed monarch in the few lucid intervals which fol¬ lowed his periods of intoxication and debauchery.
The Army plods steadily on. ‘ 33
Another source of anxiety now weighed upon the leaders of the enterprise. There was a scarcity of food and forage, and the army waggons, with limited sup¬ plies in hand, failed to keep up with the troops. Crushed and worn by the terrible ascent, soaked by the rain and chilled by the cold blasts which swept over the plateau which they had at last reached, the weary soldiers cast themselves down where they stood, and tried to forget the misery of their surroundings in sleep. On the morning of April 8th, however, the prospects of the invaders suddenly and permanently brightened. Abundance of provisions had been secured from the surrounding district, and through the exer¬ tions of Captain Speedy, assisted by Stanley, a large supply of flour, grain, horses, mules, and other neces¬ saries were collected from the adjacent villages and brought into camp. For this service at a crisis in the affairs of the contingent, Stanley complains jocosely that he never received the thanks of the British Government or even a medal, an oversight which he thinks deserving of the most severe reproof.
At ten o’clock on the morning of the eventful 8th, Napier had his first view of Magdala. Expressions of satisfaction were heard on all sides and in all ranks. The camp resounded with bursts of merriment and mutual congratulation. The army of Theodore had been seen encamped at the foot of his citadel, and there were unmistakable signs of the presence of the King himself behind the guns which peered down from the crest of his rocky stronghold. Secret messages had come out from the captives in Magdala, to the effect that Theodore was on the alert, and meditated a night attack upon his pursuers, and that they were in momen-
D
34
Henry M. Stanley.
tary terror lest he should order them all to instant death. Every precaution was therefore taken to give the be¬ sieged garrison a warm reception should they attempt a sortie, but the night of the 9th passed without any event of importance.
CHAPTER III.
To Magdala — Fruitless delay — Theodore doomed — ^The arrival of the European prisoners — Attack on the heights — ‘^E^o powder”- — Suicide of the Emperor— Sacking the stronghold — Return to the coast — Royal felicitations — “In perils by waters ” — Home.
On the morning of Good Friday, April 10th, 1868, the signal was given to advance upon Magdala. The camp had been struck some time before dawn, and at the peremptory but welcome call of the bugle, which announced the onward march of the British infantry, the men stepped out with all the energy and cheerfulness of a battalion about to take part in a holi¬ day parade. One by one the regiments defiled before their Commander, and proceeded to take up the posi¬ tions marked out for them in the place of attack.
The following is a description of the formidable fortress of Magdala from the able pen of Sir Robert ISTapier himself : —
The fortress of Magdala is about twelve miles from the right bank of the Bechilo, but the great altitude and the purity of the atmosphere exhibited the whole outline distinctly. The centre of the position is the rock of Selasse, elevated more than 9000 feet above the sea, and standing on a plateau called Islamgee, which is divided into several extensive terraces, with perpendicular scarps of basalt ; a saddle connects these terraces with the hill called Fahla. Fahla is a gigantic natural bastion, level on the top, entirely
D 2
36
Henry M. Stanley.
open, and commanded by Islamgee. It domineers completely, at an elevation of 1200 feet, over all approaches to Islamgee ; the sides appeared precipi¬ tous, and the summit, surrounded by a natural scarp of rock, accessible only in a few places, and from eighteen to twenty feet in height, l^early concealed from view by Selasse and Fahla, the top of Magdala was partially visible. The road to Magdala winds up the steep sides of Fahla, subject to its fire, and to the descent of rocks and stones. One part of the road is so steep that few horses, except those bred in the country, could carry their riders up or down it. The whole road is flanked by the end of Selasse and the broadside scarp of Islamgee. Altogether, without taking into account Magdala itself, the formidable character of its outworks exceeded anything which we could possibly have anticipated from the faint description of the position which had reached us. The refugee chief, Beitwudden Hailo, was very anxious that I should try the south side, at the Kaffurbar (gate), from the opposite range called Lanta, saying, ‘‘ If you want to take Selasse, go from hence ; but if you want Magdala you must go from Lanta.” This, however, would have been impossible. I had not force enough to divide, and I could not place this vast combination of natural fortresses between me and my direct line of communication. I also perceived that the real point to be taken was not Magdala, but Islamgee, where Theodore had taken post with all his guns, and that Fahla was the key to the whole.”
Theodore was himself a spectator of the scene from the summit of his citadel. Stanley attached
Fight under the Walls of Magdala. 37
himself to the Armstrong Battery, which was soon to do terrible execution amongst the disordered masses of Theodore’s fanatical followers. Suddenly the advance of the British troops was momentarily checked and a discharge of chain -shot came crashing down through the silence over the heads of the intrepid besiegers. Almost at the same moment 3500 Abyssinians poured down the mountain side, and made a dash at the artillery. Theodore would fight then, after all. With hideous cries and gesticulations, his rude levies bore down upon the ranks and columns of the invaders, bub their ranks were speedily broken by the deadly fire of the rocket battery of the Naval Brigade. Shot after shot swept through the swaying mass of savage warriors, and dazed and confounded they fell back, although urged by their leaders to continue the fearful struggle. The missiles of the avengers pursued them, and they fell in groups to the earth unable to escape the terrible fire of the English rifles. The remnant of the force rallied bravely in the very face of the bayonets of the Sikhs. The Indian infantry swept down the valley to assist their comrades, and the slaughter of the flower of Theo¬ dore’s army was terrible. Shells hurtled through the air from the native batteries above the scene of conflict, but they passed harmlessly over the heads of the advancing force. Night put an end to the carnage, and fatigue parties were sent out to bring in the wounded, friends and foes alike, and to bury the dead. Eavenous beasts had already gathered upon the scene of suffering and death, and some of the more seriously injured with difficulty defended them¬ selves from the persistent ravages of the hyaenas or
38 . Henry M. Stanley.
jackals which scoured the battle-field in search of prey.
Overtures were again made by the General tO' Theodore with a view to stop further hostilities, but they were rejected with scorn. The British casual- ties so far had been one officer- — Captain Roberts — and thirty privates wounded, the officer and eight privates severely. Happily no life had been sacrificed^ although the strife had at times and in places been severe and at close quarters. Of the enemy 560 were found dead, and seventy-five wounded were- admitted to the hospital. During the night various- reports floated about as to the tactics to be pursued on the morrow. Two of the captives suddenly appeared in camp, bringing a message from Magdala. Theodore was fast sinking into despair. He had attempted his own life more than once, since the English force had invested his last retreat, which he had fondly hoped they would never venture to attack^ and he had even ordered the massacre of his anxious and terrified captives, whom he charged in bitter terms with bringing destruction upon him. Rassam was brought out of durance, and consulted by the King- as to the course he must pursue to save himself and his city from destruction by the troops encamped outside the walls. He was advised instantly to release and send down to the British General all the prisoners- with their belongings, Rassam promising, on his own authority, that the invaders should at once leave the country if this were done. The King assented. The prisoners were immediately led forth to the Thak- futbau Gate, where Theodore was waiting to bid them Farewell.” At seven o’clock in the morning
Eelease of the Beitish Captives. 39
the news spread through the British lines that the captives were free, and that they were even then arriving in the camp. The wretched group, when assembled before the quarters of their deliverers, numbered sixty-one, and included women and even children, all more or less bearing traces of their past confinement, and exhibiting every sign of the in¬ expressible joy which possessed them at being once more free !
About noon of the same day one thousand bullocks and five hundred sheep were sent down from the King for the use of the troops, but the present was refused, with the haughty message from Sir Eobert that he could take no gift from the enemy of his country and his Queen. Final preparations were now made for the assault upon the fortress. Guns were placed in position to cover the scaling-parties, ladders were constructed, and all the necessary appliances got ready for blowing up the gates, or forcing a breach, in the wall of the Abyssinian bastile. A last offer was made to the infatuated prince, who was watching every movement of his pursuers, with tiger-like vigilance. The generous message remained un¬ answered. 50,000 dollars were offered for Theodore, alive or dead, and the 33rd regiment was ordered up once more to lead the way. With relentless and consummate strategy the English army environed the heights upon which Theodore, the Emperor of Ethiopia, was about to make his last stand for liberty and life. Eiding in the front of a troop of his horse¬ men, the fated monarch could be seen, clothed in long flowing garments, waving his sword overhead, and crying out, Come on ! are ye women that ye hesitate
40
Henry M. Stanley.
to attack a few warriors.” At length the heavy guns were brought into action, and under an uncertain fire of musketry from the walls overhead the Engineers advanced towards the massive gates of the citadel. The thunder rolled amongst the hills and the lightning flashed over the scene, whilst a heavy fall of rain added to the discomfort of the English regiments as they toiled up the slope towards the entrance to the fortress. -The huge postern had been carefully strengthened inside by tons of rock. The position of the little band of brave men who sought to gain an entrance, was, for a brief space, critical in the extreme, for the bullets of the Abyssinians fell thick at first amongst them. There was a cry for the powder- bags. Hasten up with the powder ! ” cried the officer in charge of the party. Hasten up with the powder ! hasten up with the powder ! ” was re-echoed all down the line. But where was the powder? and where were the implements needed in this moment of extremity to break down the towering ramparts, and secure an entrance to the long-talked of Magdala? The question was never answered. Meanwhile two soldiers of the 33rd had entered the city, and stumbled over the quivering frame of Theodore, who was lying prone upon the earth, with a fearful wound in his head inflicted in the extremity of despair by his own hand with the revolver which lay beside him. They took up the weapon and found upon it the inscription : “ Presented by Victoria, Queen of Great Britain and Ireland, to Theodorus, Emperor of Abyssinia, as a slight token of her gratitude for his kindness to her servant Plowden, 1854” Soon the interior of the fortress was crowded with the English
Storming of Magdala and Death of Theodore. 41
troops, elated with victory and ready to fly upon the spoil.. Wild shouts of triumph rose from the rugged, heights, and the dying monarch lived long enough to see the flag of his conquerors waving from the battle¬ ments of Magdala, and to hear the rapturous greet¬ ing with whicli Sir E. Napier was welcomed by his soldiers as he rode through the streets of the van¬ quished fortress.
Every one was anxious to see Magdala, and all day long a stream of soldiers, camp-followers, and idlers of all sorts and conditions kept steadily pouring into the dismantled and dishonoured city. Theodore was buried with decency, if not with honour. His wife and his only son, an interesting boy of ten years, were placed in charge of their old friend Captain Speedy till the home authorities should decide as to their final destination. Everything of value had been secured, and four days after the place fell into British hands it was evacuated, and fired by the departing and exultant forces. 30,000 Abyssinians migrated from the dis- " trict to the far off lowlands, and soon Magdala, the renowned seat of the ablest, perhaps, as well as the most brutal of African tyrants, was left to silence and decay. On April 18th, 1868, the expeditionary force started on its homeward journey. Cheer after cheer went np and echoed through the ravines, and along the rocky slopes, and among the mountain peaks of Magdala.
The return journey to the coast partook at times of the character of an old Roman Triumph. The natives came out to shower congratulations upon the con¬ querors of Theodoras ; and the clergy in solemn state bestowed their benedictions upon the victors as they
42
Henry M. Stanley.
passed along. One officer only died during the campaign. At Antalo fresh honours were awaiting the returning column. The following gracious message had been flashed from Windsor to the highlands of Tigre : The Queen sends hearty congratulations and thanks to Sir Hobert Hapier and his gallant force on their brilliant success.” The following General Order was also posted up : —
“ Camp Antalo, May 12th, 1868. The Commander-in- Chief has much satisfaction in publishing to the troops under his command the fol¬ lowing messages received by telegraph from his Royal Highness the Field Marshal Commanding-in-Chief, and from the Right Honourable, the Secretary of State for India, respectively : —
We all rejoice in your great success, and in that of your gallant and enduring army.”
‘ I congratulate your Excellency with all my heart. You have taught once more what is meant by an army that can go anywhere and do anything. From first to last all has been done ivell.^ ”
The native Abyssinian allies of the British were well rewarded for their loyalty in the hour of peril. Nothing was overlooked, and no duty was left undis¬ charged by the man who had attracted to himself the notice of the world, by the masterly manner in which he had led his brave troops to Magdala and back, without the loss of a single soldier at the hand of the enemy.
Stanley, however, did not reach the coast without one serious adventure. He was in deadly peril at one point of the journey from the floods (which, in the wet
Eetuen to the Coast.
43
season, absolutely drown tbe country in a fewliours), and could only secure bis safety by casting as a prey to the waters a valuable carpet of Theodore’s, which he had secured for 50 rupees, as well as tents, curios^ camp equipage, and even his own clothing.
The return from the highlands was only effected just in time to escape the rainy season. In fact tho troops had barely sighted the white sails of the fleet, waiting upon the blue waters of Annesley Bay, to receive them and bear them away to home and kindred, when the first real deluge descended upon the land,, flooding the valleys, and converting the ravines and passes into rushing and deadly torrents of boiling, seething, eddying flood- water, which swept down from level to level till it reached the lowland lakes or rivers, bearing upon its turbid bosom houses, cattle, crops,, and human corpses. The rush of water was so sudden that parties of travellers were sometimes caught in the middle of a huge gorge or canon by the hissing stream, which flowed on to a depth of ten feet, overturning rocks and cutting out huge seams in the walls which confined it on each side, and rushing forward with an impetuosity which no living power could withstand. The Yankee Sahib,” as Stanley was called, was pushing his way, with his attendants, at the head of the troops to get down to the landing-place, a few miles off, in time to catch the mail which left in a few hours for Suez. The adventurous Special was warned by experienced officers of the danger he would run in entering a certain narrow ravine which offered special facilities, as he thought, for a rapid and easy descent to the coast. After travelling for a short time, the cries of his servants caused him to look
44
Henry M. Stanley.
round. It had been raining heavily for some hours past, and now, coming down behind them with terrific force, was a hideous flood of considerable depth, dash¬ ing and roaring and reaching out towards them like some frightful monster bent upon devouring them. Stanley at once saw the frightful nature of the peril which threatened him and his party. They climbed in terror to the top of a great rock of granite which stood in the centre of the ravine, and watched with breathless interest the rush of the water on both sides of their place of refuge. The scene was appalling and depressing in the extreme. Broken wreckage, tents, habitations, harness, gun-carriages, forage, and corpses, drifted past them, swirling and tossing in the foam of the angry waters. The Arab servants invoked the protection of Allah after their manner, and Stanley looked upon the rising waves, and the weep¬ ing skies, with grave and anxious countenance. The water had risen to the feet of the animals upon the rock, the fate of all upon the tiny sanctuary in the midst of the billowy flood appeared to be sealed, and at least one disaster, of magnitude, would have, it appeared, to be recorded in the annals of the return from Magdala. But at the moment when all seemed to be lost, a rift showed in the clouds above, the down¬ pour ceased, the sun shone out, and in a brief space the waters in the pass subsided, and the imprisoned travellers were once more safe and free. They had been given up for lost by their comrades, and when late at night they reached the camp drenched and destitute, their appearance was regarded almost as a resurrection from the grave.
At length, however, the Yankee Sahib ’’ arrived in
JNTaeeow Escape oe Stanley. 45
safety at Zoulla, and the despatch of the correspondent of the Neiv York Herald^ conveying the news of the Fall of Magdala, reached America exactly a day before the event was known in London. On his return to England, Stanley spent some time at Denbigh, where he recounted to the friends of his boyhood and the members of his family the marvellous story of Napier’s famous march to Magdala, and exhibited with no small pride, the various trophies and specimens of native workmanship and skill which he had secured during his sojourn in the land of Theodore.
CHAPTER IV.
Troubles in Spain — State of Madrid — Isabella deposed — An im¬ portant interview at Paris— Constantinople — Kussian intrigue in Central Asia — A Persian famine — The Shah and the tele¬ graph — Bombay to Africa.
After a brief period of rest and retirement in tbe midst of the familiar scenery and invigorating breezes of Denbigh and its neiglibourbood, Mr. Stanley spent some months of 1868 in travelling on the continent. He visited the capitals of Western and Southern Europe during this tour, in which he happily combined duty with recreation, communicating his impressions of ^‘men and places” to his countrymen across the Atlantic in a series of delightful letters to the Herald, which journal he continued to represent. The life and splendour, as well as the artistic and social attractions of the cities and localities, with which he now became acquainted for the first time, made a deep impression upon him, and he found congenial employment in de¬ scribing and commenting upon the historical, political, and commercial associations of the various places of importance, at which he made a temporary sojourn from time to time. The rumours of serious internal disturbances and complications in Spain, however, soon drew his attention to the condition of the Peninsula, and he at once crossed the Pyrenees to find the army ill a state of excitement bordering upon revolution. Political matters move quickly in Spain, and the
Off to Spain.
47
Herald representative only arrived in Madrid just in time to see Queen Isabella deposed, and a Regency declared under Marshal Serrano. During this stir¬ ring period, the various phases and developments of Spanish political intrigue were accurately noted, and carefully reported to New York, by the indefatigable Herald correspondent, who found himself once more in the midst of active military operations, and face to face with the indescribable misery and horror of civil war, and who was well qualified, by his past service in America and Africa, to follow with intelligence the military movements, demonstrations, and tactics which resulted eventually in placing Amadeus of Savoy upon the vacant throne. In the following year (1869) Stanley was summoned to Paris to consult with Mr. Gordon Bennett, the proprietor of the Herald^ as to his future labours. A t this time great uneasiness was felt throughout Europe at the absence of any reliable tidings concerning Dr. Livingstone, the illustrious explorer of Africa, who had disappeared into the interior of the Dark Continent, and had been unheard of for some years. His friends in England and elsewhere had become terribly anxious as to his safety, especially as reports had reached Europe from Zanzibar to the effect that the great explorer had perished at the hands of one of the tribes in the Equatorial regions. Stanley was therefore requested to go at once to Suez, and there await any information which might reach the Red Sea by way of the Soudan or the East Coast, con¬ cerning the lost traveller, and he was furnished with a large sum of ready money, for the purpose of telegraph¬ ing to the Herald^ without delay, the earliest news he could get of Livingstone, alive or dead. He heard
48
Henry M. Stanley.
nothing, however, of the missing explorer, and finding the time pass slowly at Suez, he decided upon making a trip to Bombay, by way of Persia. Mr. Bennett had requested him to report upon the Suez Canal ; Upper Egypt and Baker’s Expedition ; Underground Jerusa¬ lem ; Politics in Syria ; Turkish Politics in Stamboul ; Archjcological Explorations in Caucasian Eussia ; Trans-Caspian affairs ; Persian politics, geography, and present condition, and Indian matters generally — a sufficiently varied programme, and one calculated to test the ability and physical powers of the smartest and most vigorous of special correspondents. But Stanley accomplished the task committed to him without,” as he says, a break-down,” and to the complete satisfaction of his employers.”
Central Asia, which Stanley crossed at this time, is the designation applied to the entire region situated between Eussia and our Empire of India. The term is not an accurate one, as the district does not occupy the middle of the continent, but lies considerably to the south-west. This territory was the old Khanate of Tartary, but with, the Eastward advance of Eussia the name came into common use, and has since become a recognized geographical expression. It is, however, sometimes applied to those portions of the district which have not as yet come under the dominion of the Czar. Thus the deserts of the Kirghiz, then Khokand, then Bokhara and Khiva, and lastly the territory of the Turcomans ceased to form a portion of Central Asia ; and Afghanistan and Persia, as independent provinces, were never rightly included in the area so named, and K^ashgaria, since its re-conquest by China, has also been shut out from it.
Through Persia to Bombay.
49
Entering Syria by Constantinople, Stanley bad mucb satisfaction in finding liis former friend and bene* factor, tbe Hon. J. Morris, still in the position of American Minister to the Government of the Sublime Porte. Stanley was cordially received and hospitably entertained at the Legation, where he was always a welcome guest during his stay in the Turkish capital. The Minister furnished him with useful introductions to Russian officials and governors, and placed at his disposal all the information he could obtain from official sources concerning the lands which Stanley was about to traverse. The venture was a serious one, and likely to be attended with considerable danger, and Mr. Morris, while commending his hardi¬ hood, presented him with a practical mark of good-will in the shape of a Henry repeating-rifle of the newest pattern, which he had just received from America. Mr. Morris was so much impressed by the improved physique and manly bearing of the young traveller (he was now about twenty-eight years of age) that when he heard of him again as the man who had
Found Livingstone,^’ he was not at all surprised, he said, at the success of his first African expedition.
But the journey through Russo- Asian territory and Persia to India, was in the estimation of the American Minister a greater feat of endurance and courage even than the direction of the expedition in search of Livingstone. Hothing was heard of Stanley for some months after leaving Constantinople, till The Times of India, of September 16th, 1870, announced his safe arrival at Bombay, and published four elaborate letters from him, full of statistics, facts, and wonder¬ fully executed word-sketches of his adventures and
50
Henry M. Stanley.
impressions by the way. Stanley’s concise and bold remarks upon tlie famine in Ispahan, the Russians in Western Turkestan, the Shah in the Telegraph Office,, and General StoletofE upon the Central Asian Question, were not allowed to pass without some adverse but good-natured criticism. The letters, however, attracted much attention throughout the East at the time, and added considerably to the reputation of the author as^ a man gifted with keen powers of observation, and an attractive and humorous style of narrative.
Of the Shah, he says in his Persian letter: —
‘‘ The Shah of Persia visited the Telegraph Office in person, and — cunning fellow ! — after examining the modes of operating, professed to be delighted with everything he saw. He regarded the apparatus of telegraphy intently, and then begged Mr. Pruce to explain how he manipulated the little round knobs which flashed the mysteries. Mr. Pruce did so very readily, and as he speaks eloquently, no doubt the Shah was much enlightened. For during the exposi¬ tion of telegraphy, the Shah laughed heartily, and delivered many a fervid * Masha-allah ! ’ Then the Shah wanted to telegraph; he tried a long time, but as the words would not march, he gave it up as a diffi¬ cult job. His fingers, he said apologetically, were dumb ; they would not talk. Then he summoned one of his own employees from the Persian oflB.ce, and bade- him telegraph as follows : —
‘‘ Telegram No. 1 to Koum, from the Shah in person.
How much money hast thou for the Shah, Khan?’ (to the Governor.)
^^Ansiuer. — (After a pause of about three minutes, the
The Shah and the Telegeaph.
51
rascally governor evidently considering, for all along the line the governors had been forewarned.) ^When the asjlum of the Universe commands less than the least of his slaves, he will give all he is worth.’
Telegram, 2 to Koum,
‘ How much is that ? ’
A, — ^ 10,000 tomans (£4000.)’
Telegram 3 to Koum ,
‘ Send the money, the Shah commands, he is well pleased.’
Telegram 4 to KasJian.
^ Oh 1 Khan, the Shah wants money, how much hast thou to give him ? ’
A, — ‘ Whatever the light of the world commands is at his service. I have 5000 tomans (£2000.)’
Telegram 5 to Kashan,
^ Too little. Send me 20,000 tomans (£8000), the Shah has said it.’
Telegram 6 to Isfahan,
‘ Khan, thou knowest thy position is a treasure« What wilt thou give the Shah to keep it ? A man has offered me 50,000 tomans (£20,000), for thy place. Speak quickly. It is the Shah that waits.’
A. — ^ Oh ! King of kings, thou knowest my faithful- ness, and hast but to speak. I have 60,000 tomans ready.’
Telegram 7 to Isfahan.
‘^‘Itis good. Thou art a wise Khan. Send the money.’
Telegram 8 to Shiraz,
Shah-zadeh, speak for thy place. There are evil- E 2
cc c
52
Henry M. Stanley.
minded men who desire thy position. Art thou wise, and is thy hand open ? ^
A.—' The throne is the place of wisdom. When the Shah speaks, the world trembles, the ears of his governors are open. I have 30,000 tomans on hand.”
Telegram 9 to Shiraz,
The Ameen-ed-Dowleh offers me 45,000 tomans. Oh ! little man, thou art mad.^
A,—^ The Shah has spoken truly. I will send 50,000 tomans.^
aj^rom his telegram to Bushire, he received answer that 10,000 tomans would be sent immediately, which was accepted.
Thus in one morning the Shah netted the hand¬ some sum of 160,000 tomans, or £64,000 sterling, from the governors’ privy purses.”
The following is Mr. Stanley’s account of the rela¬ tive positions of the English and Eussian ambassadors at Teheran. He says : . The esthesis of politics
has been studied to advantage by the respective am¬ bassadors. I always thought politics a very dry subject of study before I came to Teheran. I have at ■ last seen its esthetic side. The two ambassadors are like two bazaar merchants. Mr. Beger exhibits with a certain amount of taste, his stock in trade, consist- . ing of friendly alliance, loving letters from the Czar of all the Eussias, Eussian power, mutual aggrandise¬ ment, and deadly hellebore. Mr. Allison has a varied assortment of British notions, consisting of traditions of John Company, old friendships, English wealth and power, rich presents, Borasjoon memories, ubiquity, Argus eyes, Abyssinian glory, and English ironclads.
The English and Russians at Teheean. 53
‘‘ The Russian ambassador has a fine palace, much finer than Mr. Allison’s, and Cossack guards. The British Government is building a palace which shall cost £50,000, and utterly eclipse the Russian. Osten¬ tation aids diplomacy in Persia, and supremacy is rotative. Bravo, Mr. Beger ! bravissimo, Mr. Charles Allison 1 ” In another letter he says that General Stoletoff assured him that the designs of Russia upon Central Asia are purely commercial.” The General said:— “If Russia had merchants as enterprising as the English are, it had been done long ago ; but unfortu¬ nately, she has not. The Government has to take the initiative in everything, so that every movement made by it incurs suspicions, which, I can assure you, are perfectly groundless. I will give you an instance of Russian apathy. About five miles from here (Bakou), at Soukhaneh, are naphtha wells productive of immense wealth, yet Russian merchants, cognizant of this im¬ portant fact, were for a long time indisposed to work them upon speculation, until the Government moved in the matter, then they came down from St. Peters¬ burg by the dozen, and have now very large establish¬ ments for the refining and distilling of the petroleum. In the same way is it with Central Asian trade. Our merchants, being so timid and unspeculative, will not venture to Khiva and Bokhara, because one or two of their number have been hardly treated, until the Government has cleared the way, and established colonies and fortlets for their protection.”
In the last letter, which appeared on the 23rd Sep¬ tember, 1870, Stanley comments on the famine in Persia, which filled the people of this country with such horror and sympathy at the time. He says:
54
Henry M. Stanley.
In times of drought the governors lay in a good stock of corn, and keep their granaries full, while the peasants — placid fatalists ! — eat on without stint or care. The water is all spent, the snows of winter are all thawed, the beads of dew are not sufficient, with¬ out water the ryots cannot irrigate their land, so the crops assume a premature brownness, then fade before the parching drought. Their store of last year has been consumed, the religion with which they are saturated, will not feed their stomachs, they must eat material corn to live, but where will they get it? They cry out in despair. No charitable souls step forward to their relief, for there is not an atom of charity in the soul of a Persian. They turn to their governors, and the governors respond with a denial, for the famine prices are not high enough yet. Then the ryots besiege their bakers’ doors, and after mortgag¬ ing their property, and finding themselves still in want, prompted by esurient hunger, they break out into open- mouthed, and tumultuous mobs. Then the governors open their granary doors, and issue driblets of corn and flour at extraordinary prices, to be paid (if the ryots have no money), with next year’s harvest.”
Having completed his journey through Southern Asia, Stanley now decided to proceed without further delay to the East African coast, with a view, if possible^ to obtain some authentic tidings of Dr. Livingstone, and of his recent travels and discoveries in the inner central regions of the great continent.
CHAPTER V.
Eusy Zanzibar — The Herald Livingstone Search Expedition — Landing in Africa— Forward to Myamyambe — The lion city — Ugogo and its magnates — Experiences of African travel — Fever and famine — In the game country.
Crossing the Indian Ocean, by way of the beautiful islands of the Seychelles, which rest calmly upon the heaving waters, like emeralds set in a silver sea,” Stanley reached the busy East African port of Zan¬ zibar on January 6th, 1871. The last, but most important duty, which Mr. Gordon Bennett had -entrusted to him was now to be entered upon. He was to Find Livingstone. That illustrious man had started upon his third and (as it proved) final journey ef exploration on March 28th, 1866, taking with him a small band of thirty-eight men. "With these followers and a company of baggage-bearers, he had struck Tight into the heart of Africa, thirty miles north of the estuary of the Rovuma. Scraps of news about him and uncertain tidings of his progress, continued to reach the coast from time to time, but at last what appeared to be a circumstantial account of his murder by the lawless Ma-zitu on the shores of the Nyassa, startled his friends both in Africa and Europe. As the minds of those who knew him best grew calm, however, the terrible fears which this report had raised began to give way to strong feelings of doubt as to its truthfulness. ^ Sir R. Murchison (President
56
Heney M. Stanley.
of the Eoyal Geographical Society), and other eminent scientists and explorers refused to accept the story^ and an expedition was sent out, under Mr. W. E. Young, on June 11th, 1867, to verify or disprove the alarming narrative. Mr. Young’s party entered the continent by way of the Zambesi, and after several months, spent in the region of the Nyassa, they succeeded in disproving every detail of the supposed massacre. It was found that Livingstone was aliva and well, and that he had passed on long before, far beyond the spot at which he was declared to havo been killed. Livingstone’s primary object in under¬ taking this journey was to clear up, once for all, the mystery which had so long surrounded the great river systems, in the territory lying beyond Lake Tanganika. He had set his heart upon tracing these waters and exploring in detail the lakes, which he knew to exist in this vast and unexplored region.
The correlation of the structure and economy of the waters of these great lakes, Bangweolo, MoerOy Kambolondo, Lake Lincoln and another, and the lacus- trine rivers is,” he said in a letter to Sir E. Murchison,
the theme of my prize.”
In 1868 communications reached England from him announcing the partial completion of the first portion of his task. They were dated February, 1867, and expressed the satisfaction he felt at having solved the problem of the sources and flow of the Ohambezi. Time passed, and Livingstone was again reported by the caravans of Arab slave-traders and others which arrived at Zanzibar, to be dying, if not actually dead, of a sickness brought on by privation and the want of clothing, medicines, and food. His followers had
Find Livingstone.
57
deserted him, the chiefs through whose territories he sought to pass; had delayed his party, and robbed his stores, and the hardships and anxieties of this his last African journey, had, it was said, prostrated him in mind and body, and at length brought about his death in a native village somewhere in the equatorial regions. The last letter from his pen up to the arrival of Stanley on the coast, was received from Ujiji, May 30th, 1869. Thus, for nearly two years, no word or message had broken the perfect silence which enveloped the doings and fate of the heroic man who was still wandering on, or perhaps buried in the heart of the Dark Continent. Was Livingstone still alive, and if alive could he be found, or if found would he return or even allow Stanley to see him ? These were some of the questions which the dauntless leader of the Herald search expedition often put to himself in the midst of his preparations for the advance into Africa. No time was wasted in unneces¬ sary delay. There was no anxiety whatever as to the expense of this humane and noble enterprise. Spare no cost to make the expedition a success,” were the exact words of Mr. Gordon Bennett to Stanley during their memorable interview at Paris. Draw a thousand pounds now, and when you have gone through that, draw another thousand, and when that is spent draw another thousand, and when you have finished that draw another thousand, and so on, but Find Livingstone.”
Zanzibar has a natural beauty and attractiveness which at once excites the admiration, and arouses the interest of the visitor. Seen from the deck as the steamer enters the crowded harbour, the island presents
h8
Heney M. Stanley.
a briglit and verdant surface of liill and valley, covered witli a dense growth of luxuriant vegetation. Along the low sandy coast-line, groups and belts of lofty feathery cocoanut palms, and shapely cinnamon and mango trees, add grace and variety to a truly oriental picture, which is rendered complete by the long line of the white square consular buildings on shore, the gay flags of the war-ships and trading-vessels in the bay, the lofty palace of the Sultan, and the sub¬ stantial Anglican Mission House in the distance. A closer acquaintance with the streets and homes of the Zanzibaris themselves is not, however, quite so agree¬ able. The squalor, fllth, nakedness, and undeveloped sanitary arrangements of the native quarter, give an air of indescribable and repulsive wretchedness to the town, which is by no means creditable to the govern¬ ment of his Highness Prince Seyd Burghash, Sultan of Zanzibar and Pemba, and absolute monarch of the entire East African coast from Somali Land to the Mozambique. Zanzibar is the great trade mart and emporium of commerce of Eastern Africa, and it increases in wealth and importance year by year. It is the open gate through which the outer world com¬ municates at all times with the whole of the Eastern and Central provinces of the vast and productive continent to which it belongs. Here goods are landed in enormous quantities, from the European steamers and American ships, for the up-country markets, which are regularly supplied by the numberless caravans which constantly leave Zanzibar laden with stores of all descriptions for purposes of trade and barter in the interior. The ivory, gum-copal, or chilla-weed, india- rubber, cloves, wax, oil-seeds, and cocoanut oil, and
Zanzibar AxNd its Trade.
59
otlier native produce, gathered up in the remote but productive regions of the Zambesi, the Shire, and Ujiji, find here a ready sale and easy shipment to the markets of Asia, Europe, and America, and the slave mart of Zanzibar is daily crowded with the spoils of tribal wars on the mainland, and the fruits of Arab raids upon the defenceless villages and unprotected native settlements along the sea-board of the Mozam¬ bique, or the more distant shores of l^yassa or Tan- ganika. From this centre, which has an import trade of <£800,000 per year, and an annual export trade o£ £900,000, there extends at the present time a power¬ ful and ever-wideniug circle of commercial activity and enterprise. The Zanzibar trader goes as far south as JN^atal, and penetrates northward and west¬ ward to the desert fastnesses of the Soudan, and the main waters of the Congo. Every East African potentate of any rank has his agent or man of business located upon the island. The great and rising Central African monarchy of Karonge, which cannot be crossed in a steady march of fifty days, has or had its representative at Zanzibar, in the person of a well-known Arab, with whom I came into personal contact some years ago in the Indian Seas, and who was declared to me, on the authority of Her Britannic Majesty’s Consul at Madagascar, to be the greatest rascal unhung.” This man has had an exceptional career, even for an African man- stealer. He told me himself that as a boy he always accompanied his father and brothers on their murderous raids up the country in search of slaves. Their plan of operations was very simple. They attacked the villages in the night, and if the startled and outraged inhabitants resisted
60
Heney M. Stanley.
or gave trouble they simply set fire to the huts, leaving the aged and sick to perish in the flames. They only carried off the youthful and commercially valuable portion of the community they ravaged, leaving the rest to perish by fire, famine, or exposure. The utter depravity of this fellow was as remarkable as it was disgusting. His heartlessness was thoroughly exhibited on the occasion of his own capture, red- handed, by the cutter of one of H.M.’s cruisers on the East India station, when his dhow was found packed to the gunwales with wretched Africans of all ages and conditions. Many of the miserable creatures were lifted out of the hold dead, and the captain of the man-of-war decreed, to the intense satisfaction of the English seamen, that the Arab should be hung at the yard-arm of the ship on the following day at sunrise. The prisoner spent the intervening space of time in devotional exercises, varied by frantic appeals to Azrael, the dreadecj angel of Mortality of the Moslem Creed, not to approach him with the chill touch of death. A few hours before his execution he sent for an officer, and asked to be allowed to make a state¬ ment to the Admiral or superior authority in the fleet. This was allowed, and in the coolest manner the Arab announced that his parent and brothers were about that time likely to be engaged in a slave expedition off the coast of Johanna, and expressed his readiness, on condition that his life was spared, to lead the boats of the cruisers to the very spot. The proposal was accepted, as this band of desperadoes was notorious for its atrocities, and for the terror with which it was regarded by the tribes all along the coast. A few days after, the boats of the English squadron were
An exceptionally scoundeely Man-stealer. 61
sent to the south under the guidance of the cowering wretch, who sat in the stern of the leading cutter, covered by the revolver of the commander of the flotilla. The whole of the band were captured, with the exception of one brother, who is now believed to be none other than the renowned Tippo Tibb, the invincible monarch of the sub -tropical empire of Karonge. The betrayer of his kin was allowed to depart with his life, but he was obliged for many years to hide himself from the vengeance of his tribe, as well as from the too close attention of the British authorities. When I saw him, however, he was at his old trade again, and he had amassed a large fortune by his trafiic in human merchandise in the district where he resided, and where he occupied a small but profitable territory of his own. But for all this he was an arrant coward. Steeped to the lips in the most diabolical and revolting cruelty, he feared the sound of a falling leaf.” His cheek would blanch, and his whole frame appear as if convulsed with terror, when in peril of death in a leaky canoe, or when the possibility of ending his days after all at the yard-arm of a British man-of-man was hinted to him. His family had set a price upon his head', and he feared the wrath of his own clan pro¬ bably more than he dreaded his re-capture by the English fleet. In person he was handsome, with fine features, and a striking carriage, though somewhat short of stature. He was soft and sedate in his man¬ ners (after the manner of his kind), a clever talker, and could converse fluently in English, French, and Arabic. In fact he was a fine gentleman in appearance, attire, and conversation. The loss of an eye gave him an unpleasant look, which he cleverly disguised by the
62
Heney M. Stanley.
use of a pair of handsome gold eye-glasses. So far he has saved his neck, and he is typical of a large and influential class of men who have extensive commercial relations, secret and open, with Zanzibar, and who will have to be reckoned with, once for all, if Africa is- ever to be enlightened and free.
Twenty-eight days after landing at Zanzibar, Mr. Stanley had made all necessary preparations for his^ march into Africa. The work of hiring suitable men,, purchasing bales of cloth, and sacks of beads, securing transport animals, and enlisting an armed escort for the party, was all new to him. Information as to the kind and quantity of stores best suited to his purpose,, was difficult to obtain, and he found the toil of getting- his expedition into anything like order, for the serious, duties which lay before it, most exhausting to mind and body. He met with kind friends, however, at Zanzibar, who gave him what assistance they could, but from whom he carefully concealed the exact pur¬ pose of his mission, for reasons which will be given hereafter. At the American Consulate he was re¬ ceived with the most unrestrained hospitality by Cap¬ tain Francis H. Webb, TJ.S. Consul, and his family, wha placed their delightful residence at his disposal during the restless and anxious months which he spent in getting ready for the passage of the caravan across, the straits to Bayamoyo.
How much money shall I require ?
How many pajazis (carriers) ?
How much cloth ?
How many beads ?
How much wire ?
These questions were constantly passing through
Peepaeations foe the Expedition.
6S-
Ms mind as lie lay meditating upon the undertaking in the sleepless watches of the night. But day by day the labour of preparation and careful provision for any possible emergency in the future (when far away from all sources of supply) went on without any cessa¬ tion. He was fortunate enough to secure some re¬ cruits for his escort from amongst former followers of Speke and Grant, and he gladly availed himself of offers of service from two British seamen named Shaw and Farquhar, who appeared at the time to be a couple of smart, ready hands, and likely to be useful on the road, in a variety of ways. Arms, ammunition and uniforms were supplied to the soldiers of the Search Party, and they were placed under the charge of Bombay/’ a favourite servant of Speke’s, who ranked as Captain of the detachment. Two canvas boats were rigged and fitted by the sailors, with which to navigate the blue waters of the Tanganika Lake, should the Arabs of the district prove boorish, or dis¬ inclined to assist the expedition on its arrival in their vicinity. A cart of special design, and supposed to be just the thing to meet the peculiar exigencies of African travel, was also constructed and taken some miles on the road, when it had to be abandoned by the wayside, as a useless and troublesome piece of lumber. Guns, powder, ball, tents, medicines, coils of rope, saddles, cooking utensils, piles of boxes, flour, preserved meats, bales of cloth for barter, and for- satisfying the extortionate demands of the native chiefs, (who exacted a heavy tribute in kind from every cara¬ van passing through their territories) ; beads, blue^ white, long, round, and egg-shaped to gratify the capricious tastes of the dusky beauties of the^ interior^
6i
Henry M. Stanley.
and to purcliase food and slielter on the road ; horses, donkeys, soldiers, and bearers — all at last were safely stowed away on board the tiny heet of dhows, which spread its canvas to the breeze at noon on February 5th, 1871, and sailed out of port, heading straight for the mainland amid the hearty Farewells ” of a mul¬ titude of friends, who had gathered at the water-side to shake hands with Stanley and wish Good Luck ” to him and his hazardous enterprise.
The passage of the Straits, a distance of twenty-five miles, was made in ten hours, and on the day after leav¬ ing Zanzibar, the debarkation of the entire party was effected without mishap, upon the beach at Bagamoyo, the starting-point of the road into the interior. Stan¬ ley rejoiced to find himself once more on African soil. He longed now to press forward with all possible speed upon his errand of mercy. He feared that Living¬ stone, if alive, might hear of his arrival and delibe¬ rately keep out of his way. He had been told that the Doctor was no longer the tender-hearted, cheery missionary of former days. He had become soured by disappointment ; he was morose, it was said, and taciturn, and not at all agreeable to strangers. He liked to go his own way, and he was impatient of control or even of companionship. Misled by these reports, which all turned out in the end to be unfair and untrue, Stanley felt that the obstinate old man might resent being found ” by him, and the chances were that he might not get even a glimpse of him after all, unless the real purpose of the expedition was kept a close secret till it actually arrived at Ujiji. The dreaded season of the Masika, or tropical rains, was also approaching, and this meant nothing less than a
Stanley plunges into Aeeica.
65
persistent downpour for something like fifty days, dur¬ ing wliich movement in any direction would be simply impossible. It was therefore necessary to get away from the coast districts as soon as a start could be effected, but two months were passed within sight of the Indian Ocean before everything and everybody could be pronounced ship shape ” and in thorough travelling trim. The stores were all repacked in one-man loads, and secured with care, and in due course the six tons of goods, which had to be conveyed inland for the use of the party, were distributed amongst the carriers, who were divided into sections of one hundred men each, and sent forward in advance of the main body. Four of these pioneer caravans, with reserve stores, were despatched after considerable difficulty and delay, and on March 21st, the Herald Search Expedition itself, led by Stanley, turned directly westward on the road to Ujiji. For the first few weeks, owing to the novelty of the whole undertaking, notwithstanding his natural smart¬ ness, Stanley had been very much at the mercy of the Arab middle-men and others, who helped him to en¬ gage the host of pagazis, or bearers, necessary for the transport work of the expedition ; but he soon sounded the depths of their cunning and rascality, and long before he left the coast these unprincipled sons of Ishmael found that the Herald Special Commis¬ sioner was more than able to hold his own with them in any scheme of plunder or fraud which they devised against him. Full of solid health, fearless of danger, impervious to despair, and deeply sensible of the im¬ portance of the mission which had been entrusted to him, Stanley did not hesitate to assume from the out¬ set of the undertaking a tone of authority and dignified
66
Heney M. Stanley.
responsibility towards those who were under his orders, and the result of this exhibition of spirit was soon visible in the readiness with which men offered themselves for the caravans (in spite of the uncertain nature of the services upon which they were to be employed) and in the effectual removal, one by one, of difficulties which appeared at times to threaten the success, if not the very existence, of the expedition.
The men were all in high spirits at finding them¬ selves on the road at last, after weary months of wait¬ ing and loitering about the bunda at Bagamoyo. The streets were filled with excited crowds assembled to witness the departure of their friends and relatives for the western road. The stars and stripes led the way as the long line of men and baggage animals filed slowly out of the town and took the caravan track for TJjiji. Behind the flag marched the armed escort, with rifle and bayonet, then followed the pagazis with their loads, whilst the rear-guard was officered by the two English seamen, who had charge of the ammunition and the more valuable stores. The column was closed by Bana Mkuba ” (the big master), Stanley himself, mounted upon a superb bay horse which had been / presented to him by a friendly Zanzibari. The joyous excitement of the rank and file as they wended their way out of Bagamoyo, was soon communicated to their leader, who gave himself up freely to the en¬ thusiasm and exhilarating influences of the hour, and thoroughly sympathized with his followers in their feeling of exultation that now they were really off.” He decided to follow the course of the sun, and make directly westward by the nearest road through Ugogo and the great Arab settlement of Tabora, in the pro-
The eaely Marches.
67
vince of Unyaiijembe, for Ujiji and the shores of Lake Tanganika, about the region of which he felt sure of obtaining some tidings of the lost explorer. The distance to be traversed was over 900 miles. For the first few weeks the expedition made slow progress. The men were unused to the painful strain and labour which the incessant marching entailed upon them, and the discomforts of the road in the wet season were especially disheartening at the outset to the Europeans amongst the party. Leaving the maritime and unhealthy lowlands of Mrima, the favourite hunt¬ ing-ground of the slave-dealers, the direct course of the advancing column lay through the country of the Ukweve and the Ukami, and close to the strongly fortified citadel of Simbanwenni, the City of the Lion, in the country of the powerful tribe of the TJsequhha. The troubles annoyances and disturbing incidents inseparable from a journey through inner Africa, soon began to interfere with the steady advance and to dis¬ turb the discipline of the party, and it required all the skill and courage of the resolute man who rode now at the head, now on the fianks, and now at the rear of his little army, encouraging, coercing, and guiding it, to prevent, at times, a retreat of the- entire body, Shaw and Farquhar included, back to the coast. Abundant supplies of grain and flesh food were generally obtain¬ able on either side of the route, from the natives who flocked round the camp as soon as it was pitched, for purposes of barter and friendly intercourse, and to hear the latest news from down country Game abounded in the plains, and herds of red antelopes, zebras, elephants, deer, and hippopotami were seen in the forest glades and low marshy lands about the
F 2
68
Heney M. Stanley.
river banks. The soil was found in places to be pro¬ ductive of vast crops of maize, cotton, sugar-cane, indigo, the orchilla-weed, melons, and grain, and for days and weeks at times the country on all sides of the advancing expedition presented exactly the appear¬ ance of a well-kept and finely timbered English park. Often, however, the surroundings were sadly and purely African. The natives were treacherous or insolently aggressive, incipient mutiny delayed the onward march and threatened the very continuance of the enterprise, and famine and fever worked frightful havoc upon the members of the expedition, without respect to race or rank. Considerable difficulty was experienced in keeping the constantly straggling divisions of the column in touch with each other, and frequent halts had to be made to trace deserters and to hunt down runaways, who would decamp coast-wise without hesitation on the first opportunity, after receiving a substantial roll of cloth as wages in advance. The horses which had been brought from Zanzibar broke down at an early stage of the journey, and Stanley reached Msuwa on foot and driving before him the ten donkeys which had escaped the perils of the forest, and attended only by one faithful follower, Mabrak the Little. The entire expedition had succumbed for the time to thehardships anddifficulties of the way, and tired out with repeated halts by the road-side, and jaded beyond endurance by the desultory efforts of his followers to press on to the next halting-place, Stanley determined to advance alone ! The stage had been only a short one of ten miles, but the narrow foot¬ paths had wound and twisted for hours through a dense miasmatic undergrowth of creepers and thorny
Famine^ Fevee, Deseetion, and Insuboedtnation. C9
slirubs, tlie decayed leaves of wFich gave out a peculiar and powerful odour, wliich had the effect of a poisonous narcotic upon the men, who came one by one under its influence as they plunged into the pestiferous and reek¬ ing swamp. The straightness of the way, enclosed by walls of sharp thorny plants, armed with hooked talons three inches long, which tore the flesh open to the bone, and caught at the baggage as it was dragged along, continually necessitated the unpacking and re¬ loading of the bales and stores, and the fatigue of this operation again and again repeated, in the fetid atmosphere of the dense jungle, at length so disheart¬ ened the carriers, as well as the escort, that they one and all absolutely refused to go on till strongly re¬ monstrated with by their determined but well-nigh exhausted commander. Thefts of baggage, more fever, and the prospect of having to fight a way through the Ugogo country, added to the anxiety of the leader of the column, which had now become considerably weakened by desertions, discharges, and surreptitious leave-takings.
At Simbamwanni, the Lion City and capital of the Usequhha, a welbbuilt and flourishing town of 30,000 inhabitants, and defended by substantial stone towers, walls, and gateways, a halt was decided upon. Considerable anxiety was manifested by the Simbamwannis to have a good view of the Great Musungu^’ Stanley, whose fame had already preceded him, and they turned out in multitudes in their gayest attire to greet the strange foreigner who was passing through their land, and who did not buy ivory, deal in slaves, or take any interest in commercial matters, beyond seeking food and shelter at a fair price for
70
Heney M. Stanley.
liimself and liis companions in trayel. The trying' experiences of the past few months now began to tell even upon the robust frame of the leader of the search party, and alarming symptoms of the debilitating “ mnkungnro,” the malarious fever of the district, rapidly manifested themselves by pains in the limbs, incapacity for exertion, and distaste for food. For the time, however, the malady succumbed to a quantum of fifteen grains of quinine, taken in three doses of five grains - each, every other hour, from seven to meridian,” a somewhat sharp remedy even for a man of his extraordinary stamina, and full muscular power. One hundred and nineteen miles of the way had now been traversed in fourteen marches, which had extended over twenty-nine days, allowing a stage of a little over four and a half miles per day. The blame for this painfully slow and tedious rate of progress, lay entirely with the indolent and half¬ hearted Wanyamwezi porters, those masters of the art of how not to do it,” who were for ever dawdling in the rear, under the pretence of illness or bodily inaptitude for the most ordinary exertions required of them.
New sources of danger and difficulty now began to confront and threaten the caravan, and soon after leav¬ ing the pleasant and hospitable precincts of the Lion City, flooded rivers and loathsome swamps of slush and reek¬ ing morasses of black mud (filled to overflowing by the incessant rains) had to be forded, or waded through. In some places rude bridges were thrown over the foam¬ ing torrents, which had to be crossed by leaping from the bank to the submerged branches of a trunk of a tree, and then springing off the quivering foothold to the-
Stanley ill — Difeicitlties multiply.
71
opposite bank; but notwitbstanding tlie 70 lbs. of baggage wbich each pagazi had upon his shoulderSj the stores were generally carried over in safety and without damage or loss. Bombay/’ the trusted captain of the escort, began at this point of the advance to develop unfortunate signs of an unhappy tendency to lying and dishonesty. V aluable property, entrusted to his special care, was neglected or left behind, stores were broken into and rifled of their contents, or secretly disposed of to the horde of camp-followers who brought in sup¬ plies from the country round for sale to the great musungu.” The live-stock was neglected, the fellow had grown altogether inert and spiritless, he had allowed whole bales of cloth to get wet and rot, he had lost axes, powder, and arms, and, in fact, the cup of his iniquities was full to overflowing. There was nothing for it but to degrade the peccant captain of the escort to an inferior rank, and to give his command to another and more worthy soldier. Shaw, who had been failing in health for some time, now fell sick of fever, and could afford no real assistance as pioneer of the band, and Stanley himself was compelled, in the beating rain, to lead his column of disheartened and staggering porters through swamps and lakes of filthy mire, in which the pack-animals sank and floundered and fell about in a hapless, helpless way, and through which the weary pagazis struggled with many a groan and exclamation of disgust. The foul slush of these marshes clung to the limbs and clothing of the disconsolate travellers as they plodded on, hour after hour, drenched to the skin and suffering agonies of hunger and physical distress. Where the weary strife with the leagues of mud and unwholesome
72
Heney M. Stanley.
jungle ended, the struggle with the turbid, savage torrents began. Donkeys had to be unpacked, and dragged by sheer force through the rushing streams, which filled the nullahs and turned the rivers into huge broad, boiling, wave-crested floods, and then reloaded, while the bearers with their loads lifted above their heads at arm’s length, plunged into the chill waters, and made the best of their way to the further bank, half dead with fright and paralyzed with cold. Small¬ pox, that most terrible of African scourges, laid hold upon the soldiers of the escort, and at times it was almost impossible to get the home-sick and naturally lazy sons of the Wanyamwezi to shoulder their burdens, and once more face the long miles of water and mud which lay with an average depth of a foot or more between themselves and the next halting-place. Stanle}^ himself fell before an attack of dysentery, brought on by the miserable plight to which these con¬ stant swamp journeys had brought him, and at one time he confesses that he despaired of living to accomplish the work which he had promised Mr. Gordon Bennett he would perform, if his life was pre¬ served to him.
But Africa is a land of climatical as well as physical and ethnological surprises and contrasts, and the experiences of the road to Ujiji were not unfrequently pleasant enough, and even enjoyable. Blue skies over¬ head, and bright sparkling sunshine all about, and fertile fields teeming with tropical produce, and broad expanses of rich pastural country rising terrace above terrace, dotted over with villages, and abounding with every kind of feathered and furred game, besides wild fruits and wholesome food in endless variety, soon re-
Stanley down with Dysentehy.
73
stored tlie tone of tlie nieiis and sent them on their way for the time with renewed energies and revived hopes. The third portion of the caravan, which was sent oft from the coast in charge of Farquhar, with instructions to get it on ahead as fast as possible, was overtaken at Kiora, a filthy and insignificant village, where the sailor was found incapacitated by disease, and quite unfit to render any further service to the expedition. In three months he was dead. The scattered sections of the column now drew together. Laggards were allowed to come up with the main body, and the march was continued under the eye of Stanley himself, who kept his depleted ranks and dispirited followers from despair by oft-repeated promises of ample rest and abundance of food when Ugogo, the land of plenty, ‘L’ich with milk and honey, rich in flour, beans, and every eatable thing, should be reached.” On May 22nd the Chungo was in sight, and the search expedition joined the caravans of two friendly Arab traders, for mutual strength and greater security. The whole company made up a formidable host of about 400 well armed men, and it was placed under the temporary generalship of Sheik Tamid an alertand widely travelled Arab trader, who was thoroughly acquainted with the nature of the district to be crossed, and the rapacity and tyranny of the native chiefs who were the ‘‘ lords of the land.” A waterless tract of wilderness, thirty miles broad, had to be traversed, and for long weary hours the vast troop of men, soldiers and slaves, Arabs and whitemen, with aching heads and trembling limbs, moved over the arid plain, to the intense astonishment of magni¬ ficent herds of elands, zebras, giraffes and antelopes, which swept over the ground at terrific speed when
74
Henry M. Stanley.
disturbed by the novel spectacle of tbe slowly and painfully advancing caravan.
Ugogo at last ! with its broad green sloping pastures, its limpid streams, and its weaving, laughing fields of grain. There in the sunlight lay the long-looked-for land of plenty, gladdening the eyes and hearts of the woe-begone and famished wanderers with its richness and fertility. Huge baobabs, the elephant of the vege¬ table world, and resembling nothing so much as a fat stone bottle with a few twigs placed in its neck, gave evidence of the fruitfulness of the soil, and the wearied and exhausted travellers entered the streets of the town, which gives its name to the surrounding country, with exclamations of joy, and followed by a mob all ages and sexes, who fought for place in the front line of the spectators to see the white men pass along. Food to suit every taste was soon brought into the camp, bales were opened, and milk, honey, melons, pears, and ghee-nuts were eagerly offered in return for dotis of menkana cloth and strings of Sousi-Sousi beads.
The question of the due amount of the tribute to be paid to the native chiefs is always in Africa a vexed and trying one. For intolerable im¬ pudence and insatiable greed in this matter of tribute, the great men of IJgogo were, and are still unhappily, notorious, but the smart Herald correspondent soon learned by experience how to conduct business with these gentlemen. He was fair in his offers, and courteous in his demeanour to the magnates of the soil;” but he v^as also firm in his resolution not to be over-reached by them. Bombay ” w^as usually em¬ ployed as a sort of middle-man in the delicate and
Mattees impeove somewhat.
75
protracted negotiations wliicli always preceded tiie Landing over of the bales of cloth, or coils of tele¬ graph wire, or beads which constituted the whiteman’s offering, and he managed, by the skill by which he met cunning by cunning, and falsehood by mendacity, to defend the interests of his master against the com¬ bined and separate attacks of the entire nobility and royalty of TJgogo land. Under these now continually recurring demands for tribute, the tons of supplies which had been brought up the country began to be woefully lessened, and it was a serious question whether they would hold out till the reserve stores sent on to Unyanyembe could be utilized. The popula¬ tion on the line of march increased day by day, as the country became more fruitful, and enormous villages and broad stretches of cultivated ground gave variety ^nd motion and life to the landscape on all sides. Game was once more plentiful everywhere, but water was scarce, and the heat of the sun intolerable, and at Mizanza Stanley was once more laid prostrate by a violent attack of fever, and the whole party had to wait for some time till he was in a condition to take to the road again. Open conflict with the covetous potentates of Ugogo was with great difficulty avoided, and at times there seemed to be no way out of the diflB.culty except by forcing a path to Unyanyembe, sword and rifle in hand. The expedition was now hurried on at the rate of over eleven miles a day, and at length, after endless troubles and annoyances, and much suffering, on June 23rd 1871, Tabora, the most influential and famous Arab settlement in Central Africa, and the long looked-for halting-place in the central plain of Unyanyembe, came in sight. The
76
Henry M. Stanley.
cliange wMcli passed over the entire line of men as they caught a first view of the Arab town, with its comfort¬ able houses and cheerful surroundings, was marvellous. Burdens were tossed from shoulder to shoulder, as if they were merely of feather weight, and the pagazis, adorned with garments of glowing hues, which they had brought up from the coast, and the escort in their welh appointed uniforms and brand new turbans of many colours, made after all a brave and imposing array, as with flags unfurled and signal guns fired in the air, they were met by a group of venerable patriarchs and headmen of the settlement who had come out to welcome them to the capital of Unyanyembe Land.
CHAPTER VI.
Unyanyembe — War rumonrs^ — The expedition delayed — Killing the road ”■ — An easy victory — The Bonaparte of Africa — An eventful night — Mutiny in the ranks—Mezi^s of Livingstone — A clever flank-movement — Ujiji — Livingstone Found— -On the Tanganika — A problem solved — Back to Unyanyembe — The terrors of the Masika — Zanzibar once more — Welcome home ! — The Queen congratulates Stanley — A royal gift.
With the arrival of the search party at hospitable Unyanyembe, the first and longest stage of the journey to Ujiji was happily completed. A comfortable house was set apart for the use of Mr. Stanley, and he was soon visited by the Sultan and other notabilities, who had pleasant remembrances of Speke and Grant and Livingstone, to whom they had often been of service when they visited or passed through the district. The reserved stores, which had been kept for the road to the Lakes, were unpacked and examined ; the old coast pagizis were paid off, and sent home rejoicing with gratuities of money, and extra wages in cloth and food for the way ; and a new body of bearers was hired for the onward march through the Ukonongo and Uvinza country to Tanganika. But the peace of Stanley’s brief rest at Unyanyembe was soon broken by rumours of war between the Arabs of the place and the tribes to the west. The road to Ujiji had been killed ” by the native chiefs, who refused joermission to the caravans to travel through their territories except upon payment of an extortionate and ruinous
78
Henry M. Stanley.
tribute. The enemy was reputed to be advancing upon Tabora, thousands strong, and led by a redoubt¬ able chief named Mirambo. Having laid waste vast regions of country in every direction, he sent word that he was about to fall upon the Arab settlement.
Stanley had barely recovered from the effects of a strong attack of fever, during which he lost count of the days as they passed, and lay in a state of total unconsciousness for some weeks, when the whole settlement was called out to march upon the fortified village of the dreaded and arrogant Mirambo. Stan¬ ley determined to proceed with the Arab warriors, and on the 29th of July, the men were mustered with their burdens for the march to Hjiji. The Arab troops numbered, with the soldiers of the Herald Expedition,^’ a round total of 2255 men. The Arabs were armed with spears, long knives, guns — flint-lock muskets and Bnfields — and they had an abundant supply of ammunition, the Herald men having sixty rounds each served out to them. The goods of the expedition were stored in the fort of Mfuto till after the impending battle, as the leader of the expe¬ dition had decided to press forward without further delay as soon as the road had been opened again by the defeat of Mirambo. The fighting-men daubed themselves with a life-preserving unguent, made for them by their diviners, consisting of flour and the juice of plants. Every one was certain of a speedy victory over the “ insolent foe and the public orator of the W anyamwezi thus addressed the panting heroes, burn¬ ing for the fray : Words ! Words ! ! Words ! I ! Listen, sons of Mkasiwa, children of tJnyamwezi ! The journey is before you, the thieves of the forest
An incidental Campaign, and its disasteods Ending. 79
are waiting ; jes, they are thieves, they cut up your caravans, they steal your ivory, they murder your women. Behold, the Arabs are with you, El W ali of the Arab Sultan, and the white man are with you. Go, the son of Mkasiwa is with you ; fight, kill, take slaves, take cloth, take cattle, kill, eat, and fill your¬ selves ! Go ! ”
The assault on Zimbizo, the stronghold of Mirambo, was successful, and the victors rushed forward, howl¬ ing, dancing, and shouting, in pursuit of the flying natives. But soon the tide of war was turned against Stanley and his allies. Mirambo, by a skilful piece of strategy, worthy of a European genea^al, succeeded in driving back and overpowering the Arab forces, and a hasty and disgraceful stampede back to Tabora was inevitable ; and Stanley, again prostrate with illness, narrowly escaped being abandoned by Shaw and his Arab friends, in their anxiety to save their own heads. He had gone to the help of these men from a sense of duty and in return for the kindness they had shown him, but he now felt that he had done all that could be expected of him, and he determined to pursue his own way, irrespective of the movements of the Arab levies. He decided to avoid the dominions of Mirambo altogether, and follow another road to the south, by which course he hoped to succeed in reaching Ujiji without further molestation. On August 12th, a report was brought to him that Livingstone had been met on the road to Lake Tanganika, at the exact time that he was said to have been killed on the shores of the Hyassa. The doctor was described as wearing the well-known, faded uniform cap, with the band of tar¬ nished gold braid, and a dress made of common calico
80
Heney M. Stanley.
sheeting. He had lost his stores in one of the smaller lagoons, and his followers had fallen away from him one by one. He was walking in company with some Arabs, and was carrying his own arms and ammuni¬ tion.
Before the expedition had time to take the road, Mirambo had seized upon Tabora, slain the Sultan and chief nobles, and fired the town, to the horror and astonishment of Stanley, who was a spectator of the catastrophe from his camp at Kwihara, a few miles distant from the scene of action. Without loss of time, the refugees from the burning and ravaged settlement poured into the tembes at Kwihara, and the Herald Expedition was, in a few hours, ensconced behind loop-holed walls, prepared to fight to the last for bare life. Stanley had 150 men at his disposal. These he carefully posted about the compound. The ground about the enclosure was honeycombed with rifle-pits in a few hours, and, with his Winchester breech-loading repeater in his hand, the leader and his little band of watchers awaited the army of the African Bonaparte.” All obstacles which stood in the line of fire were removed ; the house was pro¬ visioned for fourteen days ; and there was an abundant supply of ammunition at hand. But Mirambo never came. On September 20th, the word went forth that the expedition, now completely re-organized, was to advance once more upon the road to the west. Stan¬ ley was wearied out by delay and sickness, and at length a feeling akin to desperation had come over him. He brooded in silence over the past, and de¬ pressing thoughts haunted him as to the future. The solitariness of his lot, and the wretched forecasts of the
Stanley almost despaies, but eesumes his Maech. 81
Arabs, wlio assured liim that in moving forward at that time lie was going to bis death, the fears that after all he had come so far on a fruitless errand, the lassitude of body and feebleness of mind, developed by repeated attacks of sickness, dysentery, and fever — -all these pressed upon him, till at last he cried out to himself in the stillness of the night, I shall not die ! I will not die ! I cannot die ! — and something tells me I shall find him ! Pind Him ! .Find Him ! ” He would wait no longer. Eighty-nine precious days had been consumed at Unyanyembe. He had lingered too long already. He defied Mirambo to do his worst. He shook off the friendly but craven-hearted Arabs, who offered him their counsel, and warned him of the unknown peril he was deliberately going out to face. Forward ! was the word. The drums beat, once more the star-spangled banner courted the breeze; farewell volleys rang over the heads of the wondering spectators ; and the search for Livingstone recom¬ menced. The Englishman, Shaw, who had long ago ceased to be efficient, at length fell by the way, and was sent back with an escort to Unyanyembe. Again vast extents of forest were traversed, and herds of buffalo, zebra, and antelope furnished supplies of re¬ freshing food to the men, who found diversion and plea¬ sure in hunting the spring-bok, or stalking the herds of giraffe which cropped the rich herbage of the vast alluvial plains which lay in the line of march. Some of the wooded scenery was very beautiful. Shady nooks, sloping down to the water’s edge, resonant with the cries of the honey-bird and other feathered denizens of tropical glades, and adorned with graceful creepers, the beautiful and fragrant mimosa, and the
G
82
Heney M. Stanley.
broad lotus lily floating lazily upon the bosom of the placid stream, were frequently found along the course of the Gombe, an important tributary of the Mala- garazi. On Saturday, October 7th, a serious attempt at mutiny was made bj^'the pagazis and some of the soldiers, under the leadership of Bombay,” who had already been deposed from his rank of captain of the escort for negligence and disobedience. The loads were sullenly lifted from the ground when the signal was given for moving forward, and after a mile of the road had been covered by the murmuring throng, the whole caravan came to a standstill, and the stores were dropped upon the pathway. Stanley, ever on the alert, at once took his rifle and some buckshot cartridges from the bearer, and preparing for action by hastily looking to his revolvers, he advanced towards the turbulent crowd. The fellows at once grasped their weapons, as if to fire upon their leader. Two barrels were levelled at him as he approached. In a moment his rifle was brought to the shoulder, and he called out that the two rascals who had aimed their guns at him were dead men unless they dropped their arms. The guns were thrown down at the feet of Stanley, who saw that a crisis had been reached in the history of the expedition. The cowardly crowd of malcontents were thoroughly scared and overcome by the daunt¬ less bearing and cool determination of their com¬ mander, and they w^ere soon crawling about his feet, after the fashion of the East, in abject and complete submission. A free pardon was granted on the spot to all but Bombay and Ambari, the ringleaders of the rebellion. On the termination of this awkward inci¬ dent, the column resumed its progress through the
A Mutiny quelled.
83
forest-lands of Ukonongo to Mrera, where Stanley employed liis brief halt in repairing the damage done to his clothing and boots by the thorns and curved fingers of the prickl}?' vegetation through which, for some time, the party had been pushing its way. Mrera was left behind on October 17th. Peace reigned in the ranks, Bombay and his companions in insur¬ rection had been completely crushed. The men trusted their leader, and Stanley had once more con¬ fidence in his men. Besides, every day was now bringing them near the end of their pilgrimage.
We can smell the fish of Tanganika,” they repeated to one another as they trudged hopefully and cheerily along. Behind, in the far-ofl waste, were Mirambo and his mighty men, and the weak-voiced and lying prophets of Tab ora. The loads felt less heavy, and the way more smooth as time passed on. For was not the road to be traversed growing shorter day by day ? Care had to be taken now to guard the camp by night, for the land of the lion and the leopard had been reached, and the home of the wild boar, whose savage attack was almost certain death.
Stanley now decided to make direct for Tanganika, by compass route, and then push upward to Ujiji by way of the shore. The dread that Livingstone might wilfully disappear still possessed him, and therefore he thought it best not to follow a beaten, track. The stores began to fail, and food was scarce in the surrounding country, but nothing was allowed to keep back the men one moment longer than was absolutely necessary for rest and refreshment. The broad stream of the Malagarazi was crossed in safety, but one of the donkevs fell a victim to the crocodiles
G 2
8'h
Heney M. Stanley.
as it was being dragged tbrougb tlie stream. On November Srd, a party of Wagiibha, a trans- Tanganika tribe, suddenly met the Search Party with the latest news from Ujiji. A white man, they said, had just reached there ! A white man?” said the excited and eager chief of the Herald Expedition. ^^Yes, a white man,” was the reply. How is he dressed?” ®'Like the Master,” they said, pointing to Stanley.
Is he young or old ? ”
He is old. He has white hair on his face, and is sick.”
Whence came he ? ”
From a very far country away beyond TJguhha, called Manyuema.”
Indeed, and is he stopping at Ujiji now ? ”
'Wes; we saw him about eight days ago.”
" Ho you think he will stop there until we see him ? ”
" Sigue ” (Don’t know).
" Was he ever at Ujiji before ? ”
" Yes ; he went away a long time ago.”
Could there be any doubt ? It was Livingstone ! A forced march was decided upon, and the men readily assented to the extra labour and exertion on being promised double wages. But more " lords of the soil ” had to be reckoned with, and many doti of tribute paid on that (to Stanley) terribly tedious journey of eight days to Ujiji. As soon as the voracity of one magnate was satisfied, another chief more greedy and more insolent appeared, till it again seemed to be simply a question of cleaving a way for the expedition by sheer force of arms. Bale after
Intelligence oe Livingstone.
85
bale of clofcli, and one sack after another of beads disappeared in the shape of tribute, and still the ciy was for more, till robbed^ cheated, and baffled bj the cunning of the kings and princes of Uvinza and Uhha and their satellites, Stanley declared that he would be deceived no more. But there were five other chiefs still, more rapacious by far than their sable majesties of Uvinza or Uhha, still between the expedition and Ujiji. These men, if they insisted in their demands, would beggar the caravan, and consume their last remaining bales, and they would enter Ujiji in a state of complete destitution. But Stanley faced the situation. ‘‘ I lit my pipe, put on my cap of con¬ sideration,^’ he said, and began to think. Within half an hour I had made a plan, wdiich was to be put into execution that very night.” The dreaded Wahha chiefs, who were supposed to be ready to enact, at the expense of the Herald Expedition, an African version of The Spider and the Fly,” were to be circumvented. At midnight the bearers and soldiers were suddenly called together, and a route was taken which carried the whole body right away out of the danger, and far from those five grasping chiefs of the Wahha. On November 1 0th the expedition had reached its 236th day of travel from the sea-coast, and the fifty-first of its journey from Unyanyembe and the tyrannies of Mirambo, and had now approached within six hours of Ujiji ! The spirits of these men were fresh, and their hearts light, and they all appeared to have gained new vigour of mind and body as they stepped out in the cool, bracing air with elastic tread and rapid strides over the green hills and down into the thickly-populated valleys and fruit-
86
Heney M. Stanley.
ful fields of the delightful Ukaranga country. On the top of a steep hill they saw the glistening waters of Tanganika ! In the distance they could trace the swelling sides and splendid altitudes of Ugoma and Ukaramba, its guardian mountains. They stood and gazed upon the scene, where Speke and Burton had stood and gazed upon the same marvellous picture of mountain and lake and sunshine, till at length they gave vent to their feelings of awe and delight by hearty and repeated cheers. A rapid descent of the hill, a sharp movement through the Linche valley, and another climb to the summit of a narrow height, which trended westward to the lake, and at their feet lay Ujiji. Flags were flung to the wind, and the guns loaded for the signal of triumph. Hearts beat high with the intense excitement of the moment, eyes flashed, and lips quivered, as a deafening report from the expedition announced its approach to the startled village below. The people soon filled the streets, and rushed out to meet the caravan, which came proudly along, headed by the flag of America, and followed by the red ensign of Zanzibar.
Good morning, sir,” said a voice to Stanley, as with scarcely restrained emotion the leader of the expedition walked proudly along at the head of his men. He turned and saw a man dressed in Zanzibari fashion, and asked him his name. The African declared himself to be Susi, the body-servant of Dr. Livingstone. ‘‘What!” said Stanley, “is Dr. Livingstone here ? ”
“Yes, sir! ”
“ In this village ? ”
“ Yes, sir 1 ”
Meeting with Livingstone.
87
Tlien go ! ” said Stanley, and tell the doctor I am coming.’’ In the excitement of the moment the Herald correspondent had given no name. see the doctor, sir,” said the standard-bearer. Oh, what an old man ! He has got a white beard.” Stanley made his way through the throng which crowded about him, and came to the group of Arabs, in advance of whom stood the man with the white beard,” He was tired-looking, and appeared pinched by want. He was poorly but neatly dressed, and was wearing the official cap with the gold band. The two men met at last. Stanley, not knowing what to do at the supreme moment, removed his helmet and said, —
‘‘Hr. Livingstone, I presume ? ” “Yes,” said the heroic old man, as he raised his hand to his cap. “ j thank God, Doctor, that I have been permitted to see you,” said the new comer. Livingstone replied, “ I feel thankful that I am here to welcome you.” ^
The two travellers had much to say to each other. The intercourse between them was cordial and unre¬ strained from their first meeting in the square of Ujiji. Stanley, with commendable tact and patience, allowed the doctor to tell the story of his wanderings for the past six years in his own way. The venerable explorer was in a destitute condition, and his health had given way under the privations and difficulties which he had undergone, before he had been driven back at last upon Lfjiji to obtain the necessaries of life and rest of mind and body. He stooped considerably, and he walked with the heavy tread of a tired man. Livingstone was much cheered by the letters and ^ “How I Found Livingstone” (H. M. Stanley).
88
Henry M. Stanley,
papers wliicli the expedition had brought up for him from Zanzibar, and by the stores which were handed over to him by Stanley on behalf of his friends in England and America. But he positively refused to leave Africa, even for a brief season of refreshment and relaxation. He said he longed at times to see his motherless children^ — their letters made him yearn to embrace them— but he must defer the joys and pleasures of home till he had cleared up the mystery of the Tanganika watershed. The companionship of an educated and warm-hearted friend, fresh from the scenes and surroundings of European civilization, acted like a charm upon the frame and mind of the doctor. Good food, a thorough change of ideas, and the social intercourse between the two men, as well as the freedom from anxiety as to ways and means,’’ which he now experienced for the first time for many weary months, soon made a visible change in Livingstone’s appearance, and in a few weeks he looked younger by some years than when first Stanley saw him in the midst of his Arab friends.
The doctor appears to have been the victim of adverse circumstances from the very outset of this^ his last journey of exploration. He started from the coast by way of the Bovuma in March, 1866, and his troubles at once began. His men stirred up the natives against him, and refused to follow him into the interior, declaring that they were only marching to certain death at the hands of the Mazitu, a roving tribe of plunderers, much dreaded in the Nyassa region. The doctor determined to continue his iourney at any cost, and to fight the Mazitu if no
Tx\lks with Livingstone.
89
otter alternative offered. His pagazis tliereupon fled back to tbe coast, and invented tlie circumstantial report of tbe murder of tbeir master, wbicli at once startled and dismayed tbe whole civilized vforld. Livingstone, in tbe face of enormous difficulties, was able to explore tbe interesting and densely-populated kingdoms of Babisa, Bobemba, Barungu, and Lunda, of wbicb latter territory, his friend, tbe renowned and gifted Oazembe, was king. By patient and thorough research, sometimes retracing bis steps hundreds of miles to be quite sure of his figures, or to be perfectly accurate in the compilation of his maps, he succeeded in gradually bringing to light the wonderful physical phenomena of the great lake region westward of Tanganika and Nyassa, which had never before been explored or visited by any European geographer. Following the course of that comparatively insignificant stream, the Chambezi, which he at first was disposed to identify with his own Zambesi to the southward, Livingstone found not only that it was a distinct stream from the latter, but that it flowed westward into Lake Bangweolo, and then northward as the Luapula through the Lake Moero (named by the doctor, Webb’s river), and soon after passing through Lake Kamolondo, resumed its northerly course, which the indefatig¬ able and enthusiastic traveller was unable to trace further on account of the brutal treatment which he met with from the Arabs of the district, and the base conduct of his own bearers, who first robbed him, and then taking advantage of his enfeebled condition from chronic dysentery, deserted him, and left him to find his solitary way back, forsaken, suffering, and
90
Heney M. Stanley.
witliout stores, medicine, or means of any kind. Two months would have sufficed to enable the diligent old man to solve the problem as to whether the streams he had been following were after all the head¬ waters of the mighty Nile, as he fondly believed, or the sources and fountains of the Congo, as they eventually proved to be.
The weeks glided rapidly by at Ujiji, and still the wonderful story of those six years of honest toil in the heart of the Dark Continent was only half told. Stanley was anxious to see something of the great Tanganika and its magnificent surroundings, and, accordingly, the two travellers arranged to proceed to its northern end to clear up any doubt as to the course and flow of the Eusizi River, which was by some eminent geographers supposed to connect the Albert Nyanza with the broad waters of Tanganika, thus making the latter lake the southernmost reservoir of the Nile I The question of the Rusizi stream was therefore one of some interest to the world at large, and it was with evident pleasure, not unmixed with excitement, that the two friends set out for a canoe voyage to the mouth of the river, which emptied itself into the lake at the north-eastern corner. The passage was not without danger and loss from the thieving propensities of the boatmen and bearers, who seemed to think the doctor might be fleeced with impunity as ‘^^he did not beat them,” they said, ‘^like his white brother,” of whose plan of prompt retaliation for any acts of neglect or dishonesty they had begun to entertain a wholesome dread. An inspection of the river soon settled for ever the doubt as to its character and the part it occupied in the great water system of
Stanley commences his beturn March.
91
tlie region. It was merely a slnggisli and unimportant influent of the Tanganika, and had no connection whatever with the Albert Nyanza or the ancient and historic Nile. Satisfied upon this point, Livingstone was persuaded before attempting to retrace his steps to the banks of the Lualaba, in order to complete his observations of that mysterious waterway, to return with his companion to Unyanyembe, with a view to secure fresh supplies of stores, and a band of efficient pagazis for the prosecution of his researches through the newly-discovered provinces in comfort and security.
On December 27th, 1871, the search expedition said farewell to Ujiji, its friendly Arabs, and its beautiful lake, and turned eastward for Zanzibar, and home. The two white men travelled together ; but Stanley was responsible for the line of march, and the conduct of the caravan. The redoubtable Mirambo was still a terror to the whole region between the Nyassa and the Victoria Nyanza, and the wearisome and irritating question of tribute would have to be faced and dealt with once more all along the road. But the little column was now homeward bound. The great object for which it had been sent forth had been fully accomplished. Livingstone had not only been found, but relieved, comforted, and refreshed in mind and body, through the instrumentality of the brave and exultant leader of the enterprise. The caravan was divided into two portions, one party following the path along the shore, and the other proceeding by canoe southward over the blue waters of the lake. The songs of the men rang over the rippling surface of the great inland sea, and sounded
92
Heney M. Stanley,
far away amongst tlie crags and woods of the surrounding hills. The boats shot swiftly forward, impelled by the strong arms of the willing and light¬ hearted pagazis, who chanted extemporized odes as they floated along, in which they extolled the valour and prowess of their chief, and the delights of home.
Shaw, poor fellow, had died of fever at Unyanyembe, some time after returning there. This and other news of a disquieting nature met the returning party, and damped their spirits or checked their expressions of joy for the moment. But onward and eastward was the order of the day. Some capital sport— giraffe, zebra, antelope and other game falling to the rifle of Stanley— enlivened the journey. Letters and papers sent on from Zanzibar were eagerly opened and read. On February 18th, 1872, Stanley and Livingstone reached Unyanyembe, after travelling 750 miles in company, and here it was agreed — to the sorrow of both — that duty compelled them to part.
One hundred and thirty- one eventful days had passed since the search expedition had set out from Kwihara, determined in spite of every obstacle to force the road to Ujiji, and it had marched during that period a distance of considerably over 1200 miles. Livingstone was made comfortable for the first time for some years in the house set apart for his use, wdth ample leisure to write up his journals, arrange his notes, and overhaul the bales of cloth and number¬ less packages of all sorts and sizes which he found awaiting him. Letters of grateful thanks were written by him to Mr. Grordon Bennett, Jim., and more formal despatches were prepared for the Foreign Office, and the President of the Eoyal Geographical
Stanley and Livingstone part.
93
Society. In these the aged explorer expressed him¬ self as having been much helped and cheered by the presence and kindly attention of Mr. Stanley, and gave an outline of his work in the past, and his plans for the future. With these documents in his charge, and a package of private notes and diaries for the doctor’s own relatives, Mr. Stanley took what proved to be a last farewell of his illustrious companion.” On the evening of March 13th they sat together, face to face, in tbe doctor’s quarters. “ To-morrow night, Doctor,” said Stanley, you will be alone!” “Yes,” was the reply, “ the house will look as though a death had taken place.”
At daylight on March 14th, the caravan mustered in line, and the signal for the march was given. “ Doctor,” said Stanley, “ now we must part — there is no help for it. Good-bye I ” “ 0 ! I am coming with you a little way,” said the lonely old man. And still the two wandered on in company.
“ Then am I to understand. Doctor, that you do not return home till you have satisfied yourself as to the ' Sources of the Mle,’ ” said the departing traveller. “ When you have satisfied yourself, you will come home and satisfy others. Is it not so ? ”
“ That is it exactly,” said Livingstone.
“ How long do you think the work will take you ? ”
“ A year and a half at the furthest,” was the reply. And then the parting came.
“ Good-bye, and God guide you safe home and bless you, my friend,” said Livingstone.
“ May God bring you safe back to us all, my dear friend. Farewell 1 ” said Stanley ; and the two most adventurous African explorers of our time thus
94
Henry M. Stanley.
parted in tlie heart of the great continent, never to greet each other again in the flesh.^ Stanley con¬ fessed that the pathos of the hour overcame him. He could with difficulty restrain his emotion. His heart went out after the old man he was leaving behind. He turned and looked after the bowed figure. He waved his handkerchief, Livingstone responded by lifting the gold-braided cap, and a swell of the ground hid him at once from view. The party were soon once more vrell within the territory of the rapacious lords of Ugogo, and careful watch was kept on the road through the forests and almost impenetrable jungle, which afforded ample oppor¬ tunities for the secretion of ambuscades, or the execution of foul deeds of treachery. Ho event of importance marked the course of the expedition, however, through Ugogo land. There were the usual attempts at extortion, under the guise of asking for the customary tribute, but these attempts were habitually and triumphantly foiled. Threats of enforcement of the kingly dues were met by prompt preparations for the defence of the bales and baggage of the stranger. Stanley by this time had mastered the secret of dealing with this vexed question of taxes.’’ As the caravan approached the coast, it was more than once in considerable peril from the Masika, with its angry floods, surging nullahs, and ceaseless downpour. The whole district of the Mukondokwa Eiver, along which lay the road to the sea, was sounding with the noise of the rushing waters, and the men fled before the inundating tide, as from a hungry and overwhelming flood. These ‘^perils by ^ How I Found Livingstone ” (H. M. Stanley).
Appeoaohing the Coast.
95
water ” nearly proved fatal to the most precious ti*easure which Stanley’s men conveyed.- The tin box in which Livingstone’s journals of his researches in the trans-Tanganika land were preserved, and his letters for home, was being conveyed across a hideous raging torrent upon the head of Rojab, a stalwart young negro. In the centre of the river, the bearer, unable longer to resist the force of the current, which foamed and eddied about him, fell headlong into the seething waters. He staggered to his feet, however, still retaining his hold upon the priceless casket. Look out,” shouted Stanley, from the shore, drop that box, and I’ll shoot you.” The men stood gazing with intense interest upon the scene. Rojab gave one manful leap forward and safely reached the bank with the contents of the box intact and uninjured. Onward again through rain and mud, and swamps, to the ‘‘Lion City” of the Useguhha. It was found that the wall of the town had been swept down and at least 100 of the inhabitants drowned by the sudden swelling of the river, which flowed past the citadel. Signs of ruin and devastation — the work of the floods— were visible on all sides. Entire towns were washed away with all their cattle, crops, and people in some districts ; and it was computed that over 100 villages had been destroyed by the waters in one valley alone near the Ungerengeri River. The people had retired to rest as usual, when they were suddenly startled by the crashing of what they (at first) thought to be thunder. When-’ fully aroused and able to take in the facts, they were appalled to see a solid wall of water sweeping down upon them, and carrying trees, houses, and everything before it.
96
Henry M. Stanley.
More jungle and swamps reeking with nauseous odours, and foul wifcli the poisonous exhalations from, the thick black mud and rotting vegetation. Malaria in tlie atmosphere, hot- water ants in the
dust, boas above, venomous snakes and scorpions gliding about tke feet— these were some of the minor annoyances of this portion of the homeward way. But is not tkat Bagamoyo ? and are not tkose tlie houses of the tiny port from which the weary wanderers are to take passage over sea to Zanzibar and home ? The signal blast, which tells of the return of the party, brings out a crowd to welcome back the gallant expedition which enters Bagamoyo, conscious of success, and waving in triumph the tattered banner which had headed the column to Ujiji and back. On the evening of the 7th of May, 1872, the people of Zanzibar went forth to greet the man who had found Livingstone.” The news of his success had already passed, with lightning speed, all along the coast. Worn and wasted by the trials and worries he had undergone, he was for the moment unrecognized by his most familiar friends in Zanzibar. How are you, Captain Fraser ? ” said the returned traveller to an old acquaintance he met in the street, immediately after his arrival. You have the advantage of me, sir,” the gentleman replied, and jokingly added when Stanley gave him his name, ‘^that he believed it was another Tichborne affair.” Yet he had been absent only about thirteen months.
Abundant supplies of goods, and fresh recruits for Livingstone’s party were sent off without delay to Unyanyembe. Wages were paid, and rewards be¬ stowed upon the men who through the strange
97
Back at Zanzibar,
vicissitudes of the past had been faithful to their leader. Breaches of discipline and outbreaks of temper were forgotten or forgiven. The serious, and, at times, disastrous failings of Bombay ’’ even, were no longer remembered against him, and the Herald Search Expedition ceased to exist. On May 29th, Mr. Stanley left Zanzibar for England by the steamship Africa, which landed him with other passengers at Mahe, the chief port of the Seychelles. He missed the mail to Aden by twelve hours, and was detained in consequence for a month till the next vessel touched at the islands. At Aden he took passage in the Mei-Kong to Marseilles, where he was met by the correspondent of the Daily Telegrajoh and other friends, who told him what they said in England ’’ as to his latest and most successful exploit. On August 1st the official documents entrusted to Mr. Stanley by Livingstone were duly handed in at the Foreign Office, and the papers and journals, so long and so jealously guarded, were forwarded to the relatives of the Doctor, who expressed in the warmest terms their appreciation of the splendid services which the Herald search party had rendered to their illustrious relative. The Gold Medal of the Royal Geographical Society was conferred upon Mr. Stanley, who was entertained at a complimentary banquet by that learned body, and on August 27th, Earl Granville in the name of the Queen conveyed to him “ Her Majesty’s high appreciation of the prudence and zeal which he had shown in reaching Dr. Livingstone*, and relieving her Majesty from the anxiety which, in common with her subjects, she had felt with regard to the fate of that distinguished traveller.” The thanks
H
98
Heney M. Stanley.
of the Queen were also expressed for tlie service lie liad rendered, and her Majesty congratulated liim upon tlie success of the mission which he had so fearlessly undertaken. A magnificent gold snuff-box, with the Koyal monogram in brilliants, accompanied the letter, as a memorial of the great and arduous enterprise which he had so ably conducted with the most grati¬ fying results.
CHAPTEE VII.
Througli Fanteelaiid to Ashantee — “ The white man’s grave ” — Sir Garnet Wolseley and “ War Specials” — The road to the Prah— A cruise in the Dauntless — Jack ashore — Ashantee customs —Camp-fire stories — Overtures from King Coffee — ^Sir Garnet decides to advance without delay' — The Prah.
In tlie summer of 1873 the people of England were startled bj the news from Western Africa that the forces of King Coffee, the potent monarch of the Ashantees, had crossed the Prah. This river forms a natural line of division between the territory pro¬ tected by the British, and the region governed by independent sovereigns or chiefs. The invaders had suddenly burst upon the Protectorate, which was inhabited by the Fantees, the Accru, the Crepee, Aquamoo, Assin, Agoona and Ahanta tribes, who were dwelling in unity with the authorities of the British Government, and had without warning cried ‘'havoc, and let slip the dogs of war,” amongst the craven-hearted allies of England, who fled before their implacable foes, without even attempting to make a stand in defence of their lives or property. Goaded beyond endurance by the despicable treatment, which the young and ambitious Ashantee prince declared he had received at the hands of the English officials at Cape Coast Castle, and annoyed at the sale of the important fort and town o£ Elmina to the British by the Dutch in 1872,
H 2
100
Henry M. Stanley.
lie had secretly summoned to his aid an army of rude and untrained levies, 40,000 strong, and having taken an oath in the most solemn Ashantee form to drive the white men into the sea, his generals with^^admir- ahle strategy fell upon the protected friendlies” at three distinct points at the same moment. Nine months elapsed before any adequate force could be brought to bear upon the marauders, and they were with difficulty kept from advancing into the immediate vicinity of the fortress and guns at Cape Coast, by the activity and courage of Lieut.-Col. Testing, R.M.A., the officer in charge of the military opera¬ tions, pending the arrival of the Commander-in- Chief, who was daily expected from England. Festing had come off victorious in more than one sharp brush with the insolent foe,” on thej^banks of the Prah and in the bush about Elmina, andj had effectually kept in check the adventurous troops of the sable monarch of Coomassie, and in some instances had driven them back with heavy losses across the river into their own territory. The scattered battalions re-formed, however, and armed with rude old-fashioned muskets, loaded with shells, stones, iron slugs or other primitive missiles thrown into the barrels of the weapons, and fired without wadding or ramming, they created terrible consternation amongst the feeble Fantees and their neighbours of the Pro¬ tectorate. Villages were burnt, cattle and grain and property of all kinds carried off, and the people slaughtered without mercy by the Ashantee hordes who sought to retake Elmina, and reduce the friendly ” natives from their allegiance to the British crown by an overwhelming display of military
With Wolseley m Ashantee.
101
power. For the safety of the great commercial centres upon the Coast, as well as for the preservation of the peace of the Protectorate, it was necessary that a British Army should, with as little delay as possible, take the field, and reduce King Coffee and his legions to submission. Sir Garnet Joseph Wolseley was chosen by the Home Government as the chief of the expeditionary force, and it was decided that Cape Coast Castle, the most accessible port on the Gold Coast, should be the base of the military opera¬ tions which might be necessary to bring the aggressive monarch to take a right view of his position. A spasm of something like dread passed through the army of Great Britain, when it was seen that war with the Ashantees was imminent, not from any fear of the enemy, for that the British soldier has never known — but a sense of terror at the gruesome horrors of the generally unhealthy and pestilent locality, which was to be the scene of action. The West Coast was known with too much reason as the white man’s grave,” and, probably, in no part of the habitable globe has malaria done its deadly work upon the European so rapidly and so effectually, as upon the surf-beaten shores of the West African sea-board.
The Gold Coast Colony extends along the Gulf of Guinea, from 2° 40' W. to 1° 10' E. of Greenwich, reach¬ ing inland only for about 50 miles, and embracing an area of about 16,620 square miles, with a poly¬ glot and semi-barbarous population of something like 520,000. The whole region was once a province of the Dutch, who still held some stations on the coast up to April 6th, 1872, when, by virtue of a private agreement on April 6th, 1872, the entire tract of
102
Heney M. Stanley.
coast-line became tbe property of the British crown. As far back as 1672 a number of factories had been established at various spots throughout the country^ notably at Secondee, Accra, Winnebut, and Ana» maboe, by the famous Boyal African Company, which was succeeded in 1750 by the African Company,, which received the sanction of Parliament to es~ tablish commercial relations with all the native tribes of Western Africa residing within the territory bounded by 20° N., and 20° S. lat. In 1821, the colony of Sierra Leone was empowered to take over these settlements, which had become crown property, and in 1874 the new colony of the Gold Coast, including the island of Lagos, was established with independent jurisdiction over the whole of the country bordering on the Gulf of Guinea. Gold is the chief export of the region, the productions of which are almost entirely absorbed by the English markets, and consist of ivory, gum copal, monkey- skins, palm-kernels, and oil extracted from a species of palm which flourishes abundantly on this coast.
The gold is found in the form of dust in the sand of the numerous streams, or in the beds of the mountain torrents, mixed with red mud and gravel, and is carefully extracted by the natives by a tedious process of washing by hand. The principal settle¬ ments of the colony are Cape Coast Castle, the seat of the Government, Elmina, desired by King Coffee,, as a place where his ancestors had from ancient times eaten and drank at their pleasure,” Accra, the actual capital, Axim, and Dixcove. The public revenue reaches 108,81 7L Its total exports to the
The west African Colonies.
103
United Kingdom are of the yearly value of 400,000^ The island and port of Lagos, which is an appendage of the colony, is a territory of some importance in the Bight of Benin. It comprises the north coast of the Gulf of Guinea from 2° 50' to 4° 30' E. long., and has a population (chiefly coloured) of 75,000 people, who are actively engaged in the export of lead ore, indigo, and camwood, all salable native products, and valued at about 500,000Z. per annum. The climate of the entire maritime district between the Atlantic and the mountains of the Kong is most enervating and deleterious to European constitutions. The malarious exhalations from the densely-wooded swamps and river-courses, and the presence of vast areas of stagnant and fetid marsh-land, from which the subtle fever poison is incessantly being distilled or thrown oft into the warm damp atmosphere, con¬ tribute to make the colonies of Western Africa without exception the most insalubrious foreign pos¬ sessions held by Europeans in any part of the globe. The season of danger is from May to November, when epidemics of fever and dysentery prevail with more or less virulence. The vegetation of the region is prolific and distinctly tropical. Dense, impenetrable forests^ — every variety of the great palm family, the sugar-cane, india-rubber tree, the ginger plant, the mangrove — all these are found to give character and charm to the prospect, as the traveller wends his way over the umbrageous and immeasurable wilds and tracts of bush and woodland between the coast and the distant heights of the Kong range. The chief imports are articles useful for barter with the natives, and consist of old uniforms, muskets, gaudy
104
Heney M. Stanley.
calicoes and prints, crockery of vivid lines, cutlery, glass-ware, beads, boots, odds and ends of European costume and adornment, . tobacco, kerosine, gun¬ powder and shot, hats, flour, spirits and wine. Gin and rum are greedily demanded by tbe whole of the population, and the demoralization brought about by the wholesale distribution of alcohol in these forms amongst the Fantees is becoming a grave public scandal, for the native races are being decimated by the fiery poison. The stuff (i.e. the damaged or badly manufactured spirit) is brought to The Coast” to be bartered for native produce. The story is a simple one. The native villages soon become scenes of frightful havoc and misery, crime in its most revolting forms is fearfully increased, the worst passions of the savage are aroused by the stimulant, and like a hideous epidemic, far more terrible than the malaria in its effects, both physical and moral, the drink craze sweeps over the land till it invades the remotest corners of Inner Africa. A passion for intoxicants is spreading with terrible rapidity over the continent, and in cases where the native authorities, keenly alive to the fate which awaits them, have protested against the importation of the slayer of men,” their pathetic appeals have been unheeded by the most humane and Christian nation in the world. From the north to the south a flood of spirit is poured into the territories of the native chiefs, and in Fantee-land alone whole villages may be found in a state of blind intoxication — chiefs, people, women and children, all in a state of indescribable filth, and hideous frenzy — born of the fire-water of the white man. In one district more than 10,000 barrels
Stanley’s fiest Impeessions oe Wolseley. 105
of rum were distributed amongst balf-a-million of people in one year I
On November 1st, 1873, Mr. Stanley, as special correspondent of tlie Neio York Herald, landed at Cape Coast Castle, and at once attached himself to the press contingent, which included Mr. Henty of the Standard, and Mr. Melton Prior of the Illustrated London News, and which was prepared to start for the interior with the General and his staff at an hour’s notice. But the order to advance was delayed again and again, and weary weeks were spent upon the coast and in sight of the Atlantic before everything was ready for the start upon Coomassie. Sir Garnet Wolseley, the youngest General on the roll of the British army, and the Commander-in- Chief of the .forces on the Gold Coast, had already achieved high distinction in his profession, and he looked every inch a soldier. Trim and quick, rather short of stature and spare of habit, cool and reticent, but at the same time courteous and agreeable in manner — he seemed to be a General ^Ho go anywhere and do anything.” Mr. Stanley was very much disposed to act the part of candid friend to the general throughout this enterprise. The brilliant soldier had provoked to bitterness the restless and eager ‘^newspaper man” by his harsh remarks upon special correspondents in his Soldier’s Pocket Book,” a manual written for military men of every rank, and a work which is acknowledged on all sides to be by far the best of its kind. Sir Garnet had not hesitated to write down the war specials ” as the curse of modern armies,” “drones,” and ‘‘a source of constant trouble and annoyance” to the responsible authorities in the field. Stanley, however.
106